Replace PCV valve at 60,000 miles?

**jbeall** · 09-07-2009, 08:19 PM

Hi All,

The Hayne's manual I have for my 2003 Yukon XL says that you should replace the PCV valve every 60,000 miles or 48 months, whichever comes first.

Is this really necessary or useful? Are there any benefits besides keeping the EPA folks happy that your emissions are within their requirements? I've done some searching on this and it is unclear to me whether this is really something I need to do every 60,000 miles.

-Josh

**Poor Man** · 09-07-2009, 09:02 PM

The PCV valve is one of the most overlooked parts of your engine. It only costs about 4 or 5 dollars to replace and yes, it does make a difference if it gets plugged, sludged, ect. It will prevent proper crank case ventilation, causing leaky valve covers, intake, just to name a few. If you drive all highway miles, that amount can be extended if you like, but if you drive alot of stop and start, city driving it won't hurt to change more often. For $5, it is a good PM item. Good Luck.

Jim

**jbeall** · 09-07-2009, 09:19 PM

What kind of valve do I want? Just take the old one to Autozone and find one that matches? Is any valve good enough, or is there something I want to look for?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...Name=PCV+Valve

**Poor Man** · 09-07-2009, 09:33 PM

All you have to do is tell them at the desk you want a PCV valve for make, model, engine size you have, they should be able to tell you from there. You can also get them at WalMart in the automotive section sometimes. Not much diff in price, so if you just want the "no hassle" version, just go to autozone and give them your vehicle info.

Jim

**Loggerhead Mike** · 09-08-2009, 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by Poor Man

The PCV valve is one of the most overlooked parts of your engine. It only costs about 4 or 5 dollars to replace and yes, it does make a difference if it gets plugged, sludged, ect. It will prevent proper crank case ventilation, causing leaky valve covers, intake, just to name a few. If you drive all highway miles, that amount can be extended if you like, but if you drive alot of stop and start, city driving it won't hurt to change more often. For $5, it is a good PM item. Good Luck.

Jim

ditto that. if your pcv gets clogged its only going to cause more problems. thinking about it, i need to get mine replaced

**jbeall** · 09-09-2009, 01:41 PM

Ok, so I need some help verifying I know where the PCV valve is. Here are some pictures. First one, I've outlined in blue the hose I think that leads to the PCV valve, with a yellow arrow to where I think the valve itself is, and the second one, I've zoomed in on where I think the PCV valve is.

So, two questions:

1) Is that where the PCV valve is?
2) How do I remove it for replacement? Just pull on the hose there at the end where it connects to... whatever it is that it's connected to?

**jbeall** · 09-09-2009, 06:54 PM

Ok, I got it out and that's indeed where the PCV valve is. Looks like like I expected, only dirtier

When I put the new one in, should it be lubed at all, or just put it in dry? There'd was some crud on the one that's in there, but I couldn't tell if it was the remains of some kind of a grease, or it was just crud that had collected there over time.

**Poor Man** · 09-09-2009, 09:52 PM

Originally Posted by jbeall

Ok, I got it out and that's indeed where the PCV valve is. Looks like like I expected, only dirtier

When I put the new one in, should it be lubed at all, or just put it in dry? There'd was some crud on the one that's in there, but I couldn't tell if it was the remains of some kind of a grease, or it was just crud that had collected there over time.

Put it in dry (NO HOMO)

**jbeall** · 09-10-2009, 05:02 PM

Well, once I actually looked at the one I have, I see that it is the fixed orifice version, which has no ball in it and I've been told doesn't actually need replacing. Is this the case?