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  1. #1
    Jr. Mechanic Pyro81 is on a distinguished road
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    Default Help with brakes! Erm...nevermind...

    I'm trying to change my pads and rotors on my truck. And there are 2 torx head bolts that hold the caliper in the caliper bracket. I need to get at least one of them out in order to swing the caliper out and get the old brake pads out. And i can't get the stupid things to budge! I've soaked them in pb blaster and even taken an impact gun to them and all i'm doing is breaking the teeth off my torx bit. Any suggestions other than drilling them out? Or if anybody has any creative ways to get the old pads out and the new pads in without having to remove them bolts i'm all ears!
    Last edited by Pyro81; 09-11-2009 at 06:48 PM.
    Brian
    2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
    5.3L V8
    61k'ish miles
    Red Extended Cab
    The workhorse

    1999 Mercury Cougar
    2.5L V6
    60k'ish miles
    Pearl white with black racing stripes
    The bitchy younger step-brother

  2. #2
    Jr. Mechanic Pyro81 is on a distinguished road
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    Nevermind! I figured out a way. I'm taking pics and when i'm finished i might try to write up a how-to for future use.
    Brian
    2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
    5.3L V8
    61k'ish miles
    Red Extended Cab
    The workhorse

    1999 Mercury Cougar
    2.5L V6
    60k'ish miles
    Pearl white with black racing stripes
    The bitchy younger step-brother

  3. #3
    Legend vncj96 is a name known to all
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    They could be reverse threaded.
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
    5.7 K&N & True Dual Exhaust
    Hypertech III
    05 17" Silverado rims

    99 LS 1500 5.3 "THE MULE"
    Reg Cab Long Box
    285/75/16E Dunlop Rover M/T
    ___________________________
    Jason

  4. #4
    Jr. Mechanic Pyro81 is on a distinguished road
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    No, they're not. I tried going both ways with the impact gun. A few times the bolt would move a little bit both ways but then completely locked up all together. It doesn't matter now, anyways. I figured out a way to get past removing those pins. It's a bit of a pain in the ass but it's doable. I'm finally finished with the front drivers side corner. I just finished removing the old rotor on the other side and just taking a quick break to get something to drink and rest my knees. They don't like the hard floors...even with kneepads...

    My mother always told me when i was young that whenever i get frustrated about something to stop and calm down. Then look at it calmly and think about it. I should learn to head my mothers words more often...
    Brian
    2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
    5.3L V8
    61k'ish miles
    Red Extended Cab
    The workhorse

    1999 Mercury Cougar
    2.5L V6
    60k'ish miles
    Pearl white with black racing stripes
    The bitchy younger step-brother

  5. #5
    Legend Jimmiee has a reputation beyond repute
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pyro81 View Post
    No, they're not. I tried going both ways with the impact gun. A few times the bolt would move a little bit both ways but then completely locked up all together. It doesn't matter now, anyways. I figured out a way to get past removing those pins. It's a bit of a pain in the ass but it's doable. I'm finally finished with the front drivers side corner. I just finished removing the old rotor on the other side and just taking a quick break to get something to drink and rest my knees. They don't like the hard floors...even with kneepads...

    My mother always told me when i was young that whenever i get frustrated about something to stop and calm down. Then look at it calmly and think about it. I should learn to head my mothers words more often...
    Your Mom gave you some good advice!

    The caliper bolts can be tough to break loose. A breaker bar usually gets the job done where an impact can break Torx bits, especially the cheap ones. I've found the Snap On bits are much stronger than the cheepo Harbor Freight bits.
    Jim

    2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
    Pro Comp Leveling Kit
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  6. #6
    Jr. Engineer starsilverado is a glorious beacon of light
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    Yep breaker bar is the way to go!

  7. #7
    Jr. Mechanic Pyro81 is on a distinguished road
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    I was using a breaker bar...or something similar at least. The biggest problem was keeping the torx bit in the bolt head. The depth of the torx head is so shallow that when you try to put pressure on the breaker bar it just wants to pop out. That's how i chipped the torx bit the first time. I'm not sure what brand my bits are. I think they are a step above harbor frieght but not by much. Snap On tools are good, but massively expensive...i should know, i have several sets of allen sockets and extensions. At the moment i can't afford good tools like that so i'm stuck with the cheapys for a while.
    Brian
    2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
    5.3L V8
    61k'ish miles
    Red Extended Cab
    The workhorse

    1999 Mercury Cougar
    2.5L V6
    60k'ish miles
    Pearl white with black racing stripes
    The bitchy younger step-brother

  8. #8
    Former Member TRPLXL2 has much to be proud of
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    Default A suggestion

    I know you already got them broke loose, so I won't waste my time on that part. But I just finished a brake job on my Silverado (05'), and instead of putting the old crappy torx but bolts back in I went to Auto Zone and found these. They are a hex head caliper bolt, this is what the replacement bolts are no matter where you go. Even the Chevy dealer uses these, because I checked with them before I bought them. They were $7.00 for a set of 2, I replaced all of mine for a better piece of mind. Hope this helps!


  9. #9
    Sr. Apprentice IThurstSObad is a glorious beacon of light
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    Quote Originally Posted by vncj96 View Post
    They could be reverse threaded.
    ahahahahhhaa..just put new rotors and pads on my truck last week no problem

  10. #10
    Legend tbplus10 has a reputation beyond repute
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    A shot of anti-sieze on the bolts goes a long way towards making the next brake job a much easier chore.
    Tim

    2011 Silverado 1500 LT
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