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12-13-2012, 01:20 PM #31
1995 Silverado 4x4 (Sold)
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, HIR1 9011 Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
03-07-2013, 12:05 PM #32
I have had 12 silverado/'burb/tahoe 1500 vehicles, from '96 to '04, all with between 100,000 and 240,000. Two had vibration issues. In both cases, I started at the driveshaft. On one truck, the shaft was very slightly dinged, and slightly bent. New shaft fixed the problem. On the other truck, shaft was slightly out of balance, which had worn the u-hoints to the point of vibration. New u's and a re-bal shaft fixed the problem. IN NEITHER CASE DID I TAKE THEM TO THE DEALER. I found a local shop that did nothing but driveline service, and they knew everything there is to know about driveshafts and vibrations.
I'm just gonna come out and say something that decades of experience has taught me. The very minute your truck is out of warranty, find a local shop that you trust, or a couple shops that have different areas of expertise, and use them. Over 95% of dealer work is warranty vehicles. They don't know crap about your 10-year-old, 150K truck, and could care less about it. IN VIRTUALLY EVERY CASE, YOU ARE GOING TO GET HOSED, BIG TIME! (my apologies to those fine people on this forum who work for dealerships that really do care. Those of you who do must admit that it is a rare thing).
My issues were solved by a shop that was in business for nearly 30 years. That is not to say that all local shops are better than a dealer, or that all dealers are bad. It is up to the consumer to do some research, get on boards like this, and educate yourself. But, unless you have had an experience with a dealer that warmed you from head to toe, I would not trust them to fix my bicycle.
Last edited by buckmeister2; 03-07-2013 at 12:24 PM.
03-07-2013, 05:31 PM #33
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HDLT 6.0L w/ Towing Package, Dick Cepek GM8 Rims, Dick Cepek FC II 33X11.50R17,RKSport Ram-Air Hood(Functional), Lazer Lite Aluminum Tonneau Cover, Road Armor Stealth Bumper, PIAA Lighting, Diablo Trinity Tuner, Diablew Custom Tune, BullyDog Cold Air Intake, American Racing Headers w/highflow cats, Corsa Performance Sport Exhaust, Custom Striping, Black Bowties front and rear.
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
- New York
- Blog Entries
Future Plans: Ready lift Upper Control Arms, Kings Shocks, Rear Leaf Upgrade, Grill and Blacked Out Headlights
03-15-2013, 08:22 PM #34
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
The biggest mystery in automotive history: 99 Suburban, 4x4 DIESEL...changed out the 18" wheels with 16", new pads and balljoints, then really started to notice the fabled 60mph+ shake. Since then, new tires, several rims, new rotors, wheel bearings/hubs, brake lines and hoses, master cylinder, balanced driveshaft with u-joints...I actually didn't mind since it got it in good shape except that damn shake stayed. Backed off the throttle so I know its not the tranny. Took off the front driveshaft, still there. Only thing left, differentials and front axle and C/V joints. When I unbolted the C/Vs, I spun the front diff flanges, passenger side turned real smooth, drivers was heavy with slight clicking sound...BINGO. Explains why the drivers-side wheel bearing was loose. My guess is front diff. still engaging/rubbing on one side which explains why vibration but also why so difficult to localize. Reason its hard to diagnose is that you need to run the axles so you can't easily disconnect the front diff. and test drive.
By 951500 in forum GM Powertrain TechReplies: 0Last Post: 12-05-2009, 03:20 PM
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