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Thread: Delphi vs Delco
11-24-2009, 07:17 PM #1
Delphi vs Delco
Hi Guys, just joined your forum after finding it while researching fuel related starting issues with my 97 K1500. I was impressed; you seem like a friendly, knowledgeable bunch so I signed up. Enough of that, on to the meat.
My Truck: 1997 Chevrolet K-1500, extended cab, 6.5' bed, 5.7 liter, SFI, auto, 130,000 miles
The Problem ...
The truck doesn't get driven a lot these days and a few months ago it would refuse to start after sitting for a week or so. Over a two or three month span this period shortened to days and eventually hours after which it would not start. I could give it a shot of starter fluid (which I don't like) and after starting it would run fine until the next time.
After a bit of reading I concluded the fuel pump and/or fuel pressure regulator were to blame. Many have stated these engines require 55 psi fuel pressure to even start and the book says 60-66 psi is normal. I rigged up a fuel pressure tester (more on that later) which showed I was getting only 52 psi max but it was steady.
The Questions ...
1. Any easy way to isolate which (pump or regulator) is the problem?
The fuel lines are 95% steel, the regulator is in the manifold, how can I test it?
2. With 130,000 miles would you replace both?
3. Finally, any reasons to prefer Delphi over Delco parts?
Delphi parts I've seen so far seem to be more expensive.
The Fuel Pressure Tester ...
You will need the following:
1. A standard AC connector hose with Schrader Valve fittings like the ones used for Air Conditioning
gauge sets. This will screw directly to the fuel line test fitting. Mine was used and was donated
by a friend; just make sure the hose is sound and not damaged or dry rotted.
They're rated 2500 psi so pressure should not be an issue.
2. A 100-150 psi rated quage. I got one at the local brass and rubber distributor for $10.
3. A 1/4" barb hose fitting and clamp to mate the gauge to the hose, $3.
4. Teflon tape to seal the threads between the barb fitting and the gauge.
1. Decide on the hose length. 3-1/2' or so will let you clear the hood and read it from inside the truck.
Note: the hose I used had different fittings on each end. I f you look at the openings inside those
fittings you will see that one has a bar across it and one does not. This bar opens the Shrader
Valve when you attach the hose to the fuel line test port. Make sure the hose you use has this
bar in it or the tester will not work.
2. Cut the hose to length and install the barb fitting. Don't forget the clamp!!!
3. Wrap the threads of the gauge with a layer or two of teflon tape and thread the gauge to the
barb fitting. Tighten firmly with two wrenches but not too tight; you'll damage the gauge.
Connect it to your fuel line test port, turn the ignition on and see what you got.
Put a rag around the test port fitting when you remove it; it will spray some gas.
Don't forget to replace the cap removed from the test port when you're done.
And in case you didn't notice my screen name ... Do I have to mention FIRE SAFETY???
Thanks in advance guys.
Last edited by FireMan1972; 11-24-2009 at 07:27 PM.
11-24-2009, 07:53 PM #2
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Canyon Lake, Texas
- Blog Entries
Welcome to the site! There are some really good gear heads on the site and I'm sure you'll fit right in! Good luck!
2010 Z/71 Colorado C/C
Black 4X4 w/5.3L V8
2007 Winnebago Adventurer
w/8.1L Chevy & Allison 6spd.
Canyon Lake, Texas
11-24-2009, 10:02 PM #3
Fuel pressure is close, and it stays running once you get it started. I'm wondering what shape the return system is in, and if the gas cap is the right one or if it is sealing properly. Also cleaning the MAF sensor is a good idea. Is it throwing any DTC codes?There is no way to happiness....happiness is the way.:yipi:
High Desert SoCal
93 K1500 burb (personal) 350 AT 3" Lift 250K+
02 Honda Civic LX
Looking for a 1990's Miata for an engine swap
11-24-2009, 10:15 PM #4
Thanks for the Welcome ...
11-24-2009, 10:37 PM #5
I'll try a new cap before tearing into the fuel system. Far as I know it's sealing but I think it's the original.
I'll check the MAF and codes also. It's been less than reliable lately so I haven't ventured to Advance to scan them.
Forgot to mention earlier I have replaced plugs and wires already.
Maybe I was holding my mouth right, maybe the weather, who knows but it's being somewhat inconsistent. When I did the pressure test this afternoon it had sat long enough for the battery to be down. I boosted it from another vehicle and it fired on the second lick. Inconsistent because during this string of behavior I have had to boost a couple of times and it would not fire without the starter fluid.
Thanks for the input.
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