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  1. #1

    Default Idler Arm replacement

    Anyone here have any experience/advice on swapping out the idler arm on an 05 Sierra? I have a procomp 6" lift on it, which I don't believe affects anything on this part, but thought I'd ask. The two questions I have are 1. What is the absolute best replacement part/manufacturer because I think the Toyo 35's are eating up my steering components pretty fast and I'd like something on there that is an improvement over factory. 2. Do I need a ball stud puller to do this? Most of the idler arms I see on various websites appear to come with a ball stud already in place.
    The front end rattle is back with a vengance and I'm getting the death wobble in the steering wheel now at high speeds (55mph +). I'm almost positive this is the problem, however it could be anything under there- pitman arm, ball ends, who knows. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
    2005 Sierra 1500 Z71 Crew Cab
    Pro Comp 6" Lift
    4.56 Gears
    35" Toyo M/T's on 20" Eagle Alloys
    K&N Intake
    Flowmaster Exhaust
    SuperChips Programmer (worthless)

  2. #2


    Your 6" lift didnt come with a dropped Idler arm to adjust for the lift.
    Most kits either come with or recommend changing to dropped Idler and Pitman arms to adjust for the lift and keep steering geometry near stock specs.

  3. #3


    idler arms are cake to change a couple bolts and your out talking about 15-20 min to do, you will probably need a pickle fork set to separate the center link and the idler arm, to do the pitman are is a little tricky shoving the gearbox around pitman puller just a pain to do

    2003 Z71 Silverado LS
    Access roll up cover
    Bed Rails
    Billet Grill insert
    Bed Rug
    CB with PA system
    Waiting to be installed
    Two 8in RF HX2 punch( would have 12s but they got stolen)

  4. #4


    if your also looking brand go to NAPA and get MOOG or NAPA's heavy duty line.
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  5. #5

    Cool idler arm replacement

    If your ProComp kit came with new taller steering knuckles than you dont have to drop the idler or pittman arm. I had to replace my pittman arm at 70,000 mile. I have 05 Silverado with Skyjacker 6inch and 35s. One thing I do is every January I get under my truck and retorque all the lift kit bolts and anything that was loosened to install the lift. We retorqued the bolts when new but its a good idea to retorque once a year also.

  6. #6


    i think the good idler arm maybe $100 and the installation should be about $250. some car dealers charge more to provide better quality service.

  7. #7
    Jr. Engineer sharpshooterusmc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Camp Pendleton, CA & Opelousas, LA


    the idler arm is really easy, first take of the nuts that hold the center link to the idler at pitman arms. like Z71 guy said, u will probly need a pickle fork or a puller to get the center link off. after that, take the nut off the idler arm. u will probly need a puller to get it off. when installing the new one, the shaft that u put the idler arm on will probly spin while trying to put it on. ur gunna need a impact. all u do is keep spinning it with the impact and it will catch and tighten up
    2001 2500HD 4x4
    6.0 vortec
    spectra COI, poweraid throttle body spacer, true dual 3in straight exhaust, MSD 9.5mm wire, hypertech max energy
    lift keys and add a leafs
    18" eagle alloys wrapped in 33x13.50 baja claws
    8000k HID
    plus quite a few other mods

  8. #8


    Cognito makes some serious Pitman and Idler arms.
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

  9. #9


    remove the arm from the center link, unbolt form the fram, and reverse procedure to install the new idler arm. Since the arm is pressed against the center link, you need an extractor tool (or a BFH, metioned below) to separate the two. Nevertheless, a BFH is never recommended.
    __________________________________________________ _____________________________________
    Atco Parts - A/C Hose

  10. #10


    Nice posts about the idle arm. It gives me any idea on the things I might be needed in order to achieve goodness for my GM. Thanks and keep it up guys!

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