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  1. #1

    Default rusted/busted engine????

    I have a 94 gmc burban. It has sat for little over a year in my driveway due to problems with the brakes (plus my honda civics' gas bill for each month is a third of the burban).
    My intake gaskets have leaked since the day I bought it with 200,000 plus miles and now its over 365,000 with no problems other than changing oil every 2,200 miles.
    Manifold is off, old gasket cleaned/scrapped off of heads-manifold-front and rear edge of block. What should I do/prep before I put it all back together considering this truck has "sat" with water in the oil for over a year. Engine ran fine when I parked it. I've been told to shot some wd-40 or any other light spray lube in the sprake plug holes and try to see If she'll still spins by hand with a braker bar with the plugs out. If she does, I know I'll have to run the engine and change oil, filter, and plugs at least twice.

    I'd rather ask for some help/advice now before I'm on Jaspers engine site making a $3,+++ purchase because I rushed this job.(truck only cost me $2700 lol)

    Any and all advice or ideas would be a great help to me and my blue beast. Thanks. Ray Z...

  2. #2
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    As long as the heads never came off you shouldn't have much of a problem in the cylinders. 1 or 2 cylinders may have a little surface rust from having sat with their valves open, but I doubt it, since the fuel/oil residue should have prevented it for the most part. WD-40 would work well, but honestly I would use seafoam engine treatment. Pour a little into each intake port if the manifold is still off.

    If you do need to take the heads off for any extended period of time smear Vaseline on the cylinder walls to prevent rusting.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  3. #3

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    1st question I have is how did the water get in the oil? Did you leave the hood off when you took the manifold off?

  4. #4

    Default

    Strokin, I did mention that the intake manifold gaskets were leaking when i bought it, ie-water a.k.a "ANTIFREEZE" which I know does have some (not much) lubricating properties was forced into oil from preasure of running engine! My question is not how it got there, but now that I'm about to replace the gasket to fix the leak what are some things I could do to make sure she won't seize up if I get her started!!!

    Hey Pat, you think some rust might be down and around the crank shaft?? Oh, and thanks for the replies guys..
    Last edited by 94bluebeast; 01-06-2010 at 05:02 PM.

  5. #5

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    Sorry Beast my brain is slightly fried from overthinking my own issues with my truck at the moment, (thread in the tech Q&a), and was wondering if you had driven it much like this, did the oil get all "chocolate Milk-ish?" do you think your rings are still good? Was water in the Cylinders?, Im thinking at the bottom of them the walls could be rusted, but I have not dealt with this too much. Forgive me everyone if i am no help, just trying to be involved and maybe learn somethin

  6. #6

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    No, its cool strokin. Yea I drove it like that for close to 100,000 with no problems other then the oil was a foamy brown so I'd change it every 2200 miles.
    Thats the whole thing there could be over a hundred things that could have rusted and or busted. I want to make sure that I cover as much as I can with as many answers/suggestions I can get.
    Let me know how that 383 works out for ya. I've wanted to swap in 383 Stroker w/TBI ever since I found one on Pace's website!!! After all my work is done, and if my engine takes a dump that'll be the route I'll be taking if I can get the $$$$ for it.

    And to anyone else on this site, Please excuse my dry sense of humor. I also tend to come across a little harsh, I'm just a straight forward kind of person that pays little attention to how I talk and act. Hell, who am I kidding I'm still a toys r us kid... lol
    Last edited by 94bluebeast; 01-06-2010 at 06:20 PM.

  7. #7

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    I know what you mean, I very often say or write things and only much later realize that I may be sounding like a jack@$$. So I usually try to account for that in others too. And if you ever do think im a Dumb@$$, just tell me. LOL Ok that said, I may not know what the hell im talkin bout but, here it goes, If you had no problems with it before, if your compression is good, heads good, Id say change them gaskets, get the WD into every where that you can, put in the new oil, run it for a while at idle, 30 mins or so, then at 15-2500 Rpms for 30 mins and change the oil, then drive a bit 100 miles maybe and change oil again each time you change it note the condition of the oil, If you havnt had a problem yet doubt you will, again i may not know what the hell im talking about. one other thing, at this time can you turn it over by hand?

  8. #8

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    No, I haven't gotten the chance to try it by hand. I live in NJ and we have had a bit of snow and some wickedly cold wind. In fact the news guy on tv said it will feel like 3 below with the wind chill factor for the next week or so... I plow for Newark Airport Continental gates 1 to 96 so I'm not scared of a lil snow, I just know busting your knuckles in freezing wheather sux @zz...

  9. #9

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    That is for Damn sure! I have never experienced those type of temps before, being from central Texas and all, but even when its a little cold here it sux, i havent been wanting to touch the big wrenches lately. As for the cylinders, I would think that if it were rusty in there and if you tried to turn counterclockwise it would be pretty tough or not possible. but again, ive not much experience with that

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