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Thread: Grade 8 studs

  1. #1
    Sr. Apprentice TWODOGS's Avatar
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    Default Grade 8 studs

    hey anyone know where i can get better wheel studs for my 08 2500 stock are grade 5.8 looking for better like 8

  2. #2
    Legend unplugged's Avatar
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    Try Jegs for Moroso wheel studs: jegs.com
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    Sr. Apprentice TWODOGS's Avatar
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    dont make them for my truck .got brafasco making me gr 9 wheel studs .they should be good not to break

  4. #4

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    Just curious, but you've BROKEN wheel studs? How in the world did you do that? Granted, I have broken a couple, but that's because my lug nuts were not torqued to spec and the tire sheared them off.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

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  5. #5

    Default Grade 8 studs

    Alot of the aftermarket replacement lug nuts are made in China. We found that even when we torqued them to spec they would gull the studs so when we would try to remove they broke the studs. We starting using McGard lugs and no more problems. There more money to buy but in the long run there cheaper.

  6. #6

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    Rather than changing to Grade 9 studs you might be better off finding out why your breaking studs and correct the problem.
    Grade 9 studs will only give you increased strength on the studs now you've placed the failure point on something else like maybe the lug nuts or the backing plate the studs run through.

    Going to grade 9 creates another issue you now have to be careful with galvanic and dissimilar metal corrosions which can set in and corrode metals very quickly.
    There may well be a very good reason noone makes the studs your looking for.

    This fastener supply company has some good information on bolts and fasteners http://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspx
    a google search for fasteners will turn up lots more valuable info.

  7. #7
    Sr. Apprentice TWODOGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbplus10 View Post
    Rather than changing to Grade 9 studs you might be better off finding out why your breaking studs and correct the problem.
    Grade 9 studs will only give you increased strength on the studs now you've placed the failure point on something else like maybe the lug nuts or the backing plate the studs run through.

    Going to grade 9 creates another issue you now have to be careful with galvanic and dissimilar metal corrosions which can set in and corrode metals very quickly.
    There may well be a very good reason noone makes the studs your looking for.

    This fastener supply company has some good information on bolts and fasteners http://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspx
    a google search for fasteners will turn up lots more valuable info.
    part reason is offset ,second is the stock are junk gr5 on a 2500 ,were doing 2 things its only the front breaking so were doing is changing wheel studs to grade 9 (made in canada not overseas) and putting a spacer betwwen the rim and the hub ,this should take out any play that ive had and should fix the problem .all wheels were always torqued and checked offten a lot of times i would check my fronts to see missing studs and sometimes when torqueing 110-114 lbs rim guys state this is my spec i would just torque the stud right off (shear off) i live in the country where my truck takes a pounding on a daily basis and with the offset and tire size has made this problem . i have since downed my tire width which has been a good thing all around .at this time off year my stock rims/snow tires are on and we have no issues ,so by upgradeing to a stronger stud and spacer theses issues should be (will be ) gone

  8. #8

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    I still find it very odd (and tbplus10 will agree) that you're breaking lug studs when the hard-core off-roaders with truggies and other super-rock-crawlers don't have issues with the lug studs that come stock on axles. The only time I've seen this issue was related to some sort of user issue, not the lack of strength of the stud. I'm not saying it's impossible, but if rock crawlers and mud boggers don't have an issue with that, it's highly unlikely that even someone who beats their truck up on the farm would have an issue.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

    Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage

  9. #9
    Sr. Apprentice TWODOGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
    I still find it very odd (and tbplus10 will agree) that you're breaking lug studs when the hard-core off-roaders with truggies and other super-rock-crawlers don't have issues with the lug studs that come stock on axles. The only time I've seen this issue was related to some sort of user issue, not the lack of strength of the stud. I'm not saying it's impossible, but if rock crawlers and mud boggers don't have an issue with that, it's highly unlikely that even someone who beats their truck up on the farm would have an issue.
    proofs in the pudding when were changing wheels over the studs not all break we have it broken down to defective studs from factory ar the way the rims sits and torques the studs around ,remember these studs have never seen an impact since the day i got the truck always been hand touqued .there seems to be a small rust build up where the rim sits on the studs right at where the lug cant go any futher but the rim is tight .were going to try a harder stud with new mc grad lug nuts .see with an 8 bolt pattern they dont make a spacer that sits between the hub and center of rim to take any play out that might occur ,heck im not the only one up here doing it i know another guy that changes studs after every winter when he puts is summer gear on .strang as it may be i know mud draggers and crawlers that are not having this issue that im and several others are having .we feel by doing this fix we are hoping this will end ,funny thing its only the fronts that break not the rears go figure ,any suggestion would be great

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