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Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
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  1. #1

    Default Gonna buy taho or yukon in russia

    Hi guys I'm from Russia and can't find any interesting information according this cool cars here in my place. It's little bit difficult to find and fully understand information on this forum because my English s not so good as I wish. So I will very appreciate any help to find out answers on this questions:
    What problems I'll faced with if I'll have Taho or Yukon 95-98?
    What should I first pay attention at when I will check a chosen car?
    What better Yukon or Tahoe ?

  2. #2
    Legend

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
    Posts
    1,613

    Default

    Welcome,

    I have a 1998 Suburban which is more or less a Tahoe or Yukon with about 14" more length.The drivetrains, options etc are identical with the exception of the lenght-longer driveshaft etc.

    Tahoe and Yukon are more or less identical-just differences in trim(colors and option packages), so just buy the one which is in the best condition.Here in the USA a new Yukon might be a tiny bit more expensive, but used they are the same price.

    In general the 5.7(350 motor) and the trans are very reliable. The trans usually need a rebuild around 100,000-185,000 miles- it costs about $3000 for a rebuild here, but we have lots of transmission shops that specialize in rebuilds. It might be cheaper to actually buy a new trans from GM, and install it yourself if you don't trust the shops( I would chose that option if I lived overseas-even with $1000 shipping it is the smarter option).

    Radiators, brake boosters, water pumps, brake pads, hoses , belts ,AC systems all die at around 10 years.see if the owner has some maintenance records.There are some problems with "loose steering"- it will feel too loose.

    Listen for "funny noises-metallic noises" and leaks-

    All GMs tend to have LEAKY INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS. Check for leaks, strange looking exhaust smoke, low coolant levels etc. The newest aftermarket gaskets address this problem. There is a high probability YOU WILL EVENTUALLY FACE THIS PROBLEM.Look for leaks of red coolant-look for low coolant levels-check the radiator and the coolant reservoir-the cloudy plastic thing on the left rear of the engine bay-no coolant-probably leaking somewhere.Many ascribe these leaks to the Dexcool coolant-no idea if this is correct.I still use dexcool-I have the latest gaskets in it now.

    They are generally very reliable, but older vehicles will have things you have to replace/repair.

    Luck
    Charlie
    1998 suburban-
    1/2 ton

    199500 miles
    River
    Ridge,LA

  3. #3
    Master Mechanic shadowt_t's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Baghdad. Iraq
    Posts
    539

    Default

    welcome to the site
    ashes to ashes dust to dust:slap:




    chevy tahoe 08 LT with sunroof
    cd changer leather seat ,20"wheels
    chrome full set 5.3 V8 back sensores
    4x2 fog lamps and full tint

  4. #4

    Default

    Welcome to the site!


    2010 Z/71 Colorado C/C
    Black 4X4 w/5.3L V8
    ===============
    2007 Winnebago Adventurer
    w/8.1L Chevy & Allison 6spd.
    Canyon Lake, Texas

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks all, as I uderstand the main problems in old gm cars is leaks especially it will appere in our cold climate :( and do you have any manual here on site?

  6. #6
    Legend

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
    Posts
    1,613

    Default

    I don't know that the intake manifold leak is more common in cold climates-maybe it is?

    Just check carefully for drips all around the intake manifold -especially in places that are hard to see-tucked in close and to the rear.The drips can end up waaaay back by the oil pan-

    Just drive it a bit-does it miss(run rough)? Make funny noises? Put out what looks like steam even when fully warmed up?
    The leaks generally aren't a HUGE deal.It takes maybe 6-10 hours for a moderately experienced amateur to replace the gaskets.The gaskets set cosst maybe $60-$70. Having a mechanic do the work could cost $700 here-4 shop hours or so.

    I'm trying to remember if you have to replace the timing cover(with the intake manifold gasket replacement)- it is another $50 or so for a genuine GM cover.They usually don't recommend it be reused.

    Luck
    Charlie

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