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  1. #1

    Default 1997 GMC Distributor Timing

    I have a 1997 GMC 3500 4x4 Ext Cab truck with the 8600 GVW. I replaced the OEM Distributor due to a hold down tab breaking off. I purchased a billet aluminum distributor out of the Summit magazine to replace it with. The truck runs great and no longer misses or pops like it did but it is throwing the Camshaft to Crankshaft correlation code. I can clear it and it just comes right back. After looking around on the internet I found some instructions on installing the distributor but it seems like at TDC the rotor would be pointing at the number 2 cylinder on the cap or almost at it. I thought it should be pointing at the number one on the cap. This is the 1st Vortec Distributor I have messed with as I have never had any porblems out of the truck. This truck does have 240,000 miles on it. The old Distributor gear had some sharp edges on a few teeth so I didnt use it when I went back in with the new one. My question is, can anyone give me the correct steps to replacing the distributor to get the code to clear. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2

    Default

    you'll need a scanner that is capable of reading the camshaft retard pid (most of the lower end scanners can't read it). Then you can rotate the distributor until you get this parameter to read 0 +/- 2 degrees.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  3. #3

    Default

    There's a triangle cast in to the lip where the cap mounts on the dist, on the factory unit that will point almost 180deg from # one on the cap, roll your engine around to cylinder #1 TDC, then point your rotor at the triangle on the dist. You can some times use a screw driver to spin to oil pump and get it just right. But I normally use a small die grinder, and radius the hold down tab hole, so I can adjust it. I does have to be plus or minus 2 deg. but if you point the rotor dead nuts on the point of that triangle, you should be right on. A lot of guys disagree with opening up the hole, but its fast, and I have never had a come back.

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