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  1. #11

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    Gm pickup truck radios, with the exception of the S10, have not had switched power at them since 2002. they use a data bus to tell the radio when to turn on. I believe all fuses in the dash fuse panel are constant power. Check for an empty 6 or 8 pin plug in the distribution center to the left of your brake pedal. one of the pins in there will test as an accessory, just be sure to add your own fuse holder, most radar detectors are likely fused at 3 amps or less. Hope this helps you.


    Patrick
    Last edited by Lunatic Fringe; 11-04-2010 at 02:52 PM.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunatic Fringe View Post
    Gm pickup truck radios, with the exception of the S10, have not had switched power at them since 2002. they use a data bus to tell the radio when to turn on. I believe all fuses in the dash fuse panel are constant power. Check for an empty 6 or 8 pin plug in the distribution center to the left of your brake pedal. one of the pins in there will test as an accessory, just be sure to add your own fuse holder, most radar detectors are likely fused at 3 amps or less. Hope this helps you.


    Patrick

    Alright, I was finally was able to dedicate some time to this. Thank you Lunatic, that was the soltion I was looking for! Under that distribution power's cover, there in fact IS an empty 6 pin plug. I tested those exposed plug pins with my multimeter and that is a clean 12V supply. The far left side (2 pins vertically) are both switched on the ignition so it was real easy to grab that power lead. Wired it up, turned on the ignition and have success!

    The radar detector power whip I purchased from Whistler a few years back already has a 3A fuse built in.....and is absolutely neccesary!

    I hope other users are able to have such an easy wiring job with this knowledge.

    ---------- Post added at 10:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by troutbug View Post
    Wheadman, I didn't actually get a chance to test power to these, but I looked in my manual & #22,23, & 24 on the inside panel should all be switched power. They are 10A, 25A, and 30A fuses, respectively. Even though you may not have these features, there may still be power to them at the panel. You should be able to use a fuse tap kit and hook to any of these, and just fuse the new wire to whatever you need for the radar detector (10A?). If you decide to pull power from the under hood panel, I am currently using #43 (10A) for a pressure switch with no problems. Keep us updated.
    Just for future reference, alll three of those fuses were either always live or didnt have power at all. However, I was able to fix my issue with some guidence from another user on this thread so thanks for the info!

  3. #13

    Default

    That's good to know, thanks for posting up what you found out. It doesn't make sense to me that none of the interior fuses are on switched power, but I'll leave that up to the engineers at GM. Like I said, I've pulled switched power from the main fuse box, but that's all. Hope I didn't cause you to waste too much time looking in the wrong place. At least now we know.
    -Sal


    2008 Silverado 1500 LT 5.3L Crew Cab
    Desert Brown Metallic

    Century top, Yakima roof rack, 2.5" front lift, Readylift 3" rear blocks, Line-x bedliner, step bars, AVS vent visors, Weathertech floor liners, door sill guards, power tailgate lock, tailgate damper, KC light bar w/ PIAA 525s, rear mini-light bar, rear LED reverse/utility lights, dual batteries (Cole Hersee isolator), DIC upgrade, 20" GM wheels, Cooper Discoverer A/T3s, 26 gal. onboard air (twin Viair 480Cs), Nathan Airchime K3HA / Old cast 2nd Gen. P3 Horns, Graham White valve, bell

    Past Chevys: 1985 S-10 ext.cab, 1963 BelAir sedan

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