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08-28-2012, 03:27 AM #1411
Hm today, I'm gonna put more gas in her and go help whatever parts of the family that needs help "preparing" for this "storm"...that is if it ever gets here. If its not here today, I'm gonna go buy another socket for my instrument panel and install that last LED that I forgot about.
If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger cheater bar.
1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 "Vortec" | Spectre "Cold Air Intake" | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tail Lights | Denali headlights | Grill Mounted Fog Lights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/70/16 Futura Scramblers | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers 2N1O | Mostly stock-ish
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CVN-69 "IKE-ATRAZ" AIR/V-2 Gear Dawgs
08-28-2012, 12:24 PM #1412
Waiting to hear back from my mechanic on what it is that keeps causing a voltage drain on my system. I've been fighting this for about a year now. It acts like a bad altenator. It shows as charging just fine for 15 to 30 seconds and then loses it charging for 2 to 3 seconds. I changed out the alt last year and it fixed the issue for about 6 months. Then it happened again so I exchanged the old for a new and all was good again. Chalked it up to a bad unit. Then it happened again about 6 months later again! Changed it out again and all was good again. Now I was concerned that something else was going on. Then it happened again last friday and I was REALLY concerned! Changed out the alt and still acting weird. Had an electronic diagnoistic done wnad they couldfn't find anything so I bought a new alt from a difference source. Still not working! :-( So now it's at another shop getting another diagnostic! Fingers crossed that they find the problem and that they aren't going to try and charge me an arm and a leg to fix it!
08-28-2012, 01:00 PM #1413
Sounds like corrosion in the wires. Can you see any bulging wires connecting to the battery? Sometimes the copper wiring corrodes inside the wire casing. Corroded wires don't transfer electricity well. Often this type of charging problem can be fixed by finding and replacing the offending section (usually close to the battery). I've changed lots of wires with this problem. You can get the wire with terminal connected in 12" 14" and 18" sections (sometimes up to 20" and 24") at automotive shops. The cost is between $8 and $24 per terminal wire. Cut the old wire off at a point where the copper is copper colored (no green!), strip back a bit of the wire coating and connect to the new terminal wire set (it's usually a screw attachment). Takes about 10 minutes total.
Look for those bulges! The wire can look clean at the terminal, but be corroded up inside the wire covering.
-Skippy2006 Vortec Max 1500
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08-28-2012, 01:06 PM #1414
I actually replaced the pos and neg batt wires late last year. :-/
I've thought maybe it might be other smaller wires but I'm not seeing any bad ones visually. Which is why I had a diagnostic done to it.
But I'm also now thinking that it might be something other than wiring since it happens on a somewhat regular interval rather than randomly. :-/
08-28-2012, 01:10 PM #1415
Another though that came to mind was a bad starter solenoid. That's got a live lead to it. If your solenoid isn't functional, you can suck energy through it. This commonly shows up as drained battery overnight, though. Have you tested your battery to see if the drain is ONLY when the vehicle is running?
Sounds like it's going to be a tough diagnosis, no matter what. Especially given the fact you've been dealing with this for years. Bet you're ready to crack!
Last edited by Skippy; 08-28-2012 at 01:12 PM.
08-28-2012, 03:28 PM #1416
No drain while not running as far as I'm aware. I did check the leads to the starter to make sure they had good connections though. It also starts just fine as well.
I just heard back from the shop and they tell me there's no voltage drain and that it's just my gauge. I told them BS because the rpm drops when the gauge drops. So now they're back at it and supposed to call me back again!
And you're right! I'm about to crack over this! I understand not being able to find the draw on my own, but now 2 different shops haven't found it either. :-/ I guess my next stop is the dealership. I hate using dealerships for anything because of the rates, but if the current shop still can't figure it out then I guess I'm out of choices. :-/
08-28-2012, 03:48 PM #1417
Hang in there. In the end, you'll either find it or sell it. LOL Dunno if I'd go to the dealership though. They don't usually have much more to offer than a great mechanic, except replacement parts you don't need (with the spray and pray approach, it may work in Call of Duty, but not in auto repair).
Do let us know what you find if you do. I'm very interested to learn the root cause of this one.
08-28-2012, 10:59 PM #1418
I'll definitely let ya know what I wind up finding out. If worse comes to worse I may even find a mechanics college that needs a project car to fix. Maybe having a bunch of rookies tear it apart would do the trick?!?!? LOL
08-29-2012, 12:11 PM #1419
Just be sure you get it back in one piece, not in one piece with a box of extra parts.
08-29-2012, 12:26 PM #1420
LOL.... I hear ya. But that idea isn't sounding as crazy right now.
Just spoke with the (current) mechanic and he still can't find where the draw is coming from. He seems to think it's my volt meter that's causing the drop because it's shorting out? I don't think that could be it since it's just a simple meter attached to a printed circuit board for the entire dash. But none the less..... I just ordered a new gauge from LMC to try out. So I'll find out in 3 to 7 days if that was another waste of 50 bucks! :-/
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