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  1. #2311

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    I've been paying more attention at the body shop while talking with my body man than I think he knows ... and he probably has no idea how good my memory is. Hence, I've learned a thing or two just by watching while yapping at the shop ... and it's time to apply it. So, today I ordered the following in preparation for a polishing job I intend to do next weekend (weather permitting) ... to get rid of swirl marks that my truck came with (since i bought it used):
    • Makita 9227CX3 rotary polisher/sander
    • 3M 5/8" quick release adapter
    • Three 3M foam double-sided compounding pads (05705 [white], 05706 [black], and 05708 [blue])
    • Three 16oz bottles of 3M compounds (39060 [rubbing compound for use on white pad], 30961 [machine polish aka swirl remover for use on black pad], 39062 [ultrafine machine polish for use on blue pad])


    I've eyeballed the RPM's he runs when polishing with his air polisher, and it looks like 1200-1800 is about right ... slower on the more coarse grit compounds (39060) and faster on the finer stuff (39062).

    I wanted an air polisher/sander but good ones are STUPIDLY expensive so I settled for electric (which still wasn't cheap ... but it was half the price of the air tool I wanted). I'll still wax by hand using paste because I'm old-school like that.

  2. #2312

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    @SurrealOne check out the Adams Polish website. They have some video's on there that talk about buffer speed as well as other tips for using the powered polishers.





    2011 GMC Sierra SLE - 5.3 - 4X4 - Z71 - King Shock Level Kit - Body Color GMC grill emblem - 2 Tone Engine Cover, Rad Cover and Battery Box - Volant CAI - Tru Cool 40K tranny cooler - Sylvania ZXE bulbs Hi/Low -TriFold Hard Tonneau Cover- CoverCraft Seat Covers - Diablo inTune - GoRecon LED under rail lights - GoRecon LED White Lightning Tailgate Light Bar - Windows tinted to 45%- Kenwood DNX6990 - JL Audio C5-650 &650X- JL Audio Amp- Interco Truxus M/T 33x12.50x18

  3. #2313

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    Quote Originally Posted by aloxdaddy99 View Post
    @SurrealOne check out the Adams Polish website. They have some video's on there that talk about buffer speed as well as other tips for using the powered polishers.
    Good info for later use!
    2010 GMC SIERRA CREW CAB (Silver) 4x4, ReadyLift 2.5" Level Kit, 305/60/18 Dick Cepek Mud Country, Go Rhino Nerf Bars, Husky Liners front and rear, Bushwacker Bed Rail Caps, Custom tuned. 4:11's

  4. #2314

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    Today I detailed the interior of my truck to get rid of the layer of pollen that was covering EVERYTHING. As part of the effort I steam-cleaned both the carpet and the headliner. I also decided to move some things from my Du-Ha kit to the truck box to make room for long guns, again.

    @aloxdaddy99, thanks for the tip, I'll check that out.

  5. #2315

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    Did a boat load of errands today also greased all the door hinges because they were creaking and I had to re tighten my starter terminal after it loosened. Good thing it came undone in the driveway not in some parking lot. I also removed the excess gasket material from the roof so it looks great . Finished my day by taking pics for a review of my Ryobi tools I'm gonna post on the site.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  6. #2316

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    just be careful when ur buffing and keep moving never sit in one spot or you will burn through your clear coat, thats how buffing works it esentially heats up your clear coat and melts it smooth it a little more complicated then that as you know by what type of compound u bought but as a body man myself i have seen many many people sit in on spot to long and go right though there clear coat and trust me that is an ugly mark you have to repaint that part of the truck to remove. the hotter it is outside or in your shop the faster you need to move around keep an eye on the temp of your paint by touching it with your hand every once and a while.
    IF IT AINT BROKE DRIVE IT HARDER!!!!

    hockey is life everything else is a crutch

  7. #2317

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    I drove my Duramax for work, as usual. Today I loaded it up with 5,600 lbs of gravel on the deck.

    2008 FORD F350. My new all-around truck.
    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread. - Crashed. Will be rebuilt soon.
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
    2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck -- FOR SALE


  8. #2318

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    Drove about 180+ miles home from vermont in the truck averaged about 18-20 on the highway which is great and used the cruise about 90% of the time. Also go a new set of driving lights to replace the one I knocked off this winter.

  9. #2319

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    I put nearly 200 miles on the truck today, with 140ish being towing miles, as I was dragging the trailer to pick up a small riding mower on which I got a stupidly good deal.

    I also scared up a used-but-new (as in all items still in plastic) Shurhold 3101 DA Polisher Starter Kit (just like this: http://www.amazon.com/Shurhold-3101-.../dp/B002OIFB7S) for 40 clams, which took me a bit out of my way during the mower pick-up. Obviously I made sure it worked before paying. I'm giddy over it because I was looking to buy a DA polisher to reduce wax buffing time, next weekend and, at the price I paid, I feel like I stole this one.

    When it was time to refuel, I poured 32oz of Techron Concentrate Plus into the truck's empty 34 gallon fuel tank; I figure a little varnish clean-up might help my now-higher-mileage engine, and this is one of the few fuel additives I've read about that has a proven track record.
    Last edited by SurrealOne; 05-28-2013 at 11:15 AM.

  10. #2320

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    @SurrealOne when you are done with your truck let me know so I can drop my truck off!!! LOL

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