Results 2,001 to 2,010 of 2390
03-13-2013, 04:15 PM #2001
Today I checked under the truck and .... (wait for it) ... there was a farking t-case or tranny fluid drip/leak under it ... as well as a mild coating of the stuff under the truck. I called the tranny mech and he'll be looking at it (again) in the morning. I'm starting to get irritated, now, as this guy was supposedly good. FFS...
03-13-2013, 05:35 PM #2002
I took mine to the car wash and gave it a good cleaning. Now it's nice and shiny again... for a while anyway. Winters here suck for keeping vehicles clean.
2008 FORD F350. My new all-around truck.
2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread. - Crashed. Will be rebuilt soon.
1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck -- FOR SALE
03-13-2013, 07:38 PM #2003
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
New 17 inch rims!!!
03-14-2013, 01:18 PM #2004
Well, I gave my truck a bath, put the black grill back on and ripped the running boards/mudflaps off!
I want to take that front air dam off but I think it protects the belt...thoughts?
03-14-2013, 01:32 PM #2005
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
03-14-2013, 01:34 PM #2006
I've seen a lot of guys do it...I'm just not sure about it yet.
03-14-2013, 04:27 PM #2007
Check the output shaft seal. I replaced mine about 3-4 times as well. This last one I spent the money on the dealer seal (and put a touch of rtv gasket maker on the lip just in case) and no more leaking. I used timken and NAPA seals and kept getting leaks (this was after fixing the pump rub), those seals were about 25 each and the dealer one was 85, so I ended up spending 75 on the aftermarket seals and then still spending the 85 for OEM. Comparing the seals side to side the dealer seal was actually a much higher quality seal.David
2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
1960 Land Rover Series II 88
2001 Pontiac Sunfire
2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
NRA Life Member
03-14-2013, 09:34 PM #2008
In my case it cost me time and fuel to drive to the mech (which is 50 miles from where I live [i.e. 100mi round trip] ... but close to where I work on my truck on weekends) ... and I gave up my truck for a full day each time (a grand total of three times). However, I only paid for the part once ... and it was the NAPA seal I paid for. The mech doing the work ate the cost difference for the OEM seal. He also handed me 40 clams in cash for gas and apologized profusely for the hassles.
I think this time it's fixed for good. (That, by the way, should make what I did to my truck obvious ... I drove it to the mech for more TLC ... but only after loading it up with a truckload of stuff to drop off in storage since it's near the mech's garage. I filled up at some point, too ... then I drove back home.)
Also note that the plastic rivets that hold it in place are meant to be easy to remove/replace (once you know how they work). It's common for folks in stock height trucks to remove it to gain ground clearance prior to off-roading ... and then replace it when they're back on pavement. This means you can give it a try and see what you think and, if not satisfied, just put it back on.
03-15-2013, 04:46 PM #2009
I had a local shop install a short throw shift kit for my 5 speed manual trans. Picked it up this afternoon and put few miles on it to practice...it's nice!
03-15-2013, 04:58 PM #2010
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