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  1. #11
    Sr. Mechanic Gambit's Avatar
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    I understand what your saying stealth but a Capacitor is designed to charge quickly and disharge slowly. It will keep a constant power suplly to your amp. Granted he is running a wrong set up i am referring to someone with a good set up. The capacitor keeps your headlights from bumping with the music. Back when i had my 1400 watt amp i had nothing but issues until i insatlled the CAP and all was good after that. A Capacitor is more high tech than a battery. It will charge much more quickly and hold power better than any battery.
    Jeep Recovery Vehicle.

  2. #12

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    There as always are exceptions. One is the size of cap. Two would be how efficient your alternator is. The lights dimming is a common thing. The BEST solution is a better alternator. Caps were designed for competition, they are great for an instant burst but once the charge is gone while driving around, it puts a tremendous strain on your system which is now trying to keep up with all of that and charge everything.

    You could have had all of the moons aligned in your system Gambit, lol.

    I'll use a broad statement which of course always has an exception.
    Watch my phrasing ;)

    Caps usually are a waste of money and cause more frustration and potential problems than what they're worth.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit View Post
    I understand what your saying stealth but a Capacitor is designed to charge quickly and disharge slowly. It will keep a constant power suplly to your amp. Granted he is running a wrong set up i am referring to someone with a good set up. The capacitor keeps your headlights from bumping with the music. Back when i had my 1400 watt amp i had nothing but issues until i insatlled the CAP and all was good after that. A Capacitor is more high tech than a battery. It will charge much more quickly and hold power better than any battery.
    I remember when I was 10 or so every system I saw had a cap, but now no one uses them. My lights still dimmed with a Streetwires 3.0 farad cap and I had a yellow top optima with a 2500 watt system. When I took the cap out they didn't dim anymore then what they were. I'm guessing since automotive electrical systems have improved and that there are now batteries that are designed for mobile audio there really is no need for a cap. This subject really seems to be an opinion. One stereo shop will say caps are useless and another shop will say that caps are a very important feature to have in a system. I would rather spend the money on a higher quality battery and wiring. Then after I got those I would save up and get a bigger alt. Try doing the "BIG 3" if your having dimming problems.
    Last edited by ZSI52; 03-12-2010 at 09:42 AM.
    Bagged 06 Silverado Crew Cab.

  4. #14
    Legend Mean_Green_95's Avatar
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    I figured out why it was cutting off. My input level was on full blast. I feel like an idiot, one of the first things you are supposed to check and I completely missed it. I'm still going to get another amp though. My friend says he might have on for me, so I'll see what he has tomorrow. And I'm still gonna add the cap because I was pushing 2000 watts in my 95 and running that cap and never had a lick of electrical issue.
    2010 Equinox LT
    2.4, 6 speed auto, power lift gate, remote start, bluetooth, xm.

    1995 Cheyenne C1500 ext. cab(my baby, my first truck)
    5.0, 5 speed, Silverado appearance package, power nothing, bucket seats and console Silverado, painted black interior, eBay halo headlights, eBay chrome tails, eBay cai, dual Flowmaster 40's w/no cats, 15x7 American Racing Hopsters, Walmart fog lights, SS mirrors

  5. #15
    Legend Mean_Green_95's Avatar
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    Ok, I just ordered a new amp.

    It's a Kenwood KAC-5204 2-Channel 350W

    Here are some specs:

    2-Channel Class A/B Car Amplifier
    RMS Power Rating:
    4 ohms: 60 watts x 2 chan.
    2 ohms: 75 watts x 2 chan.
    Bridged, 4 ohms: 150 watts x 1 chan.
    Max power output: 175 watts x 2 chan.
    MOSFET switching power supply
    LED power indicator
    Speaker-level inputs
    Short circuit, DC offset, overload, and thermal protection circuitry
    Aluminum die cast heat sink
    Built-in cooling fan
    Gold-plated RCA level inputs
    Gold-plated screw terminals
    Fixed low-pass filter (80 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
    CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
    Frequency response: 5-50,000 Hz
    Dimensions: 7-13/16"W x 2-5/16"H x 9-1/16"D

    This should do the trick. What do yall think?

  6. #16
    Master Mechanic
    lancer's Avatar
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    i had a 600 watt kenwood amp on one of my infinity 12's before and it would play fine at low volumes but whenever you turned it up and it needed more power it would shut off. come to find my amp had a bad channel. just saying may be something to look at........


    2002 Tahoe LT---------TINTED WINDOWS------------7" DUAL DVD INDASH

  7. #17
    Legend Mean_Green_95's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancer View Post
    i had a 600 watt kenwood amp on one of my infinity 12's before and it would play fine at low volumes but whenever you turned it up and it needed more power it would shut off. come to find my amp had a bad channel. just saying may be something to look at........
    This is going to be hooked up to my door speakers. But, a bad channel is probably just an isolated incidence. Me and my friend put two Kenwood amps in his Ford Ranger and had no problems. But thanks tho.

  8. #18
    Master Mechanic
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    was just another thought......

  9. #19
    Legend Mean_Green_95's Avatar
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    Ok, I hooked up the amp and GREAT! I would recommend this amp to anyone.

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