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  1. #31

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    one thing I'll point out when Sea Foaming, or pouring anything else into a vacuum line... avoid putting it in very fast, you run the risk of hydrolocking your engine.
    03 1500 Z71 5.3 - DD/Tow rig

  2. #32

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    I used a can to about 20 gallons of fuel & did get better throttle response & quicker start. I will use half the other can in the intake when I get a chance.
    Thanks
    Everyday I wake up is a great day! ;-)
    05' Chevy Suburban, 11' Ford Fiesta

  3. #33

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    Seafoam is great stuff.
    Dave
    2011 Silverado Ext 5.3 4X4 18" Wheels
    Leer Hard Body Tonneau cover

  4. #34
    Sr. Mechanic Ethan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX
    Posts
    150

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    I've started using Marvels Mystery oil, stuff works alot better than SeaFoam and is $7 cheaper. You can run it through the gas or oil, and with the oil it just eats up all the sludge and scrubs the inside of that engine clean. My oil comes out a dark amber now, been using it for about 3 oil changes. Run it though the gas too, cleans everything out.

    I also use B-52 Chemtool, it's exactly like SeaFoam, but wayyyy cheaper. I think SeaFoam has become too popular and they are just cashen in on the name now.
    1994 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext Cab 350 cuin TBI in dark Chevy blue
    160,000+ miles
    Original paint
    Original interior
    Original engine and tranny
    wrecked twice stolen once
    Diamond Plate bed rails
    Power windows
    Original Alloy wheels
    Original fancy smancy cup holder
    Tow package
    Original plastic bed liner
    K&N Cone Air Intake
    Dual MagnaFlow exhaust(not true dual) with chrome tips
    MSD Street Fire Performance Ignition coil

  5. #35

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    Just used it for the 1st time this weekend on my 4.3l with 230k. I used one full can on the vac line and wow did it smoke worse than a chiped diesel on the smoke setting. Wish I took a video of it. Runs much smoother and has much better throttle responce and power. Im also using one can in the fuel tank as well.

    If only they made seafoam for people to drink!
    1995 C1500 4.3L 2WD. JET TBI Spacer, JET stage 1 chip, 10mm Taylor custom wires, Pulstar Iridium Pulse Plugs.
    260k miles and still going strong...

  6. #36

    Default Marvel Mystery Oil

    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan View Post
    I've started using Marvels Mystery oil, stuff works alot better than SeaFoam and is $7 cheaper. You can run it through the gas or oil, and with the oil it just eats up all the sludge and scrubs the inside of that engine clean. My oil comes out a dark amber now, been using it for about 3 oil changes. Run it though the gas too, cleans everything out.

    I also use B-52 Chemtool, it's exactly like SeaFoam, but wayyyy cheaper. I think SeaFoam has become too popular and they are just cashen in on the name now.
    I've found Marvel Mystery oil is much less "solventy" (ain't that a technical term). Basically, it takes longer to break stuff down, which for me is a far better solution. It only takes a few chunks of gunk to clog an oil filter and engage they bypass valve. By using MMO, I've found the cleaning process takes a bit longer, and the particles are more likely to be fine, rather than chunky. I've had no problems running MMO in an engine for a whole oil change, and know folks who regularly replace a full quart of their oil. Too thin for me to do regularly, but I've done it on all of my "new-to-me" used vehicles. The engines run better without the gunk, and you're less likely to clog and engage the bypass on the filter. It's also an amazing penetrant, and most excellent in your air tools (lots of shops run MMO as the air-tool oil of choice.).

    B-52 is a nice solvent, but I've not seen the intake vacuum tube results (instant power restorations) that I've had with the many many seafoam jobs I've done for folks. I like to use it on uncoated throttle bodies for cleaning, in the older style injection fed carbs and for parts cleaning, but not for general intake cleaning (seafoam all the way for me). I watch for seafoam to go on sale, and then buy 4-6 cans of it... that lasts me the 10 or so cars that come through my garage in a year.

    Down at the local performance shop (these guys are serious track mechanics), we had a long conversation about seafoam, and they informed me the seafoam does a great job cleaning up stuff, but if used too regularly in the gasoline will actually widen the ports on the injector heads, due to the high solvent content. Recommendation from them was no more than every 6 months or so. Made sense, especially since the likelihood of actually having build-up that matters in less than 6 months is nil.

    I typically will run it every 18 months in my own vehicles (but I only put on about 3K in miles a year), and most commonly do it as part of any tune-up that comes through my garage (like I said, about 10 a year). Always makes a difference. Especially on cold starts in our cold weather climate. Poor intake condition in cold weather makes for a nasty chug.

    Cheers,

    Skippy.
    Last edited by Skippy; 08-06-2012 at 02:00 PM.
    2006 Vortec Max 1500
    Performance:
    -Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
    Other:
    -Spray-in Bed Liner
    -Premium Sound w/lifetime Satellite Radio | Leather | Sunroof | Heated Seats
    -Limbstriping from USING the truck (those are badges of honor)

  7. #37

    Default

    I am not going to knock Sea Foam, I use it all the time, but for the gas tank, I have switched to techron which also really good. I have never done Sea Foam in my oil, but I should try that, well maybe not, I already have oil leaks somewhere around the engine.

  8. #38
    Sr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis, In
    Posts
    487

    Default

    (Down at the local performance shop (these guys are serious track mechanics), we had a long conversation about seafoam, and they informed me the seafoam does a great job cleaning up stuff, but if used too regularly in the gasoline will actually widen the ports on the injector heads, due to the high solvent content)

    WOW! Next time a mechanic suggests to you that it will widen the ports on your injectors just smile and slowly back away. Where is 2COR when you need him?
    Last edited by dpeter; 08-06-2012 at 05:37 PM.
    2000 GMC YUKON SLT, 5.3L tow pkg, G80 rear/w 3.73 gear

  9. #39

    Default

    Given the fact that ports widen over time anyway, just from exposure to gasoline and heat, high solvents slowly contributing to the deterioration of ports is reasonable. I didn't mean to suggest seafoam actually eats the part (it is just a petroleum product). I should have more accurately stated that their experience is that over-use of fuel additives, including sea-foam, has a strong correlation with degraded fuel injector ports. Strong-correlation. Not causation. Again, my apologies.

    As for why, maybe the solvents expose more of the metal to heat damage if there isn't a thin deposit (totally guessing here). Regardless, the mechanic's point (Again, I conceded I didn't represent it very well in my last post) was that OVER-treating gasoline is NOT going to help, and MAY result in accelerated deterioration of the fuel injector. Regardless whether you believe their experience with early injector failure due to over-use of Seafoam is legitimate without empirical data, I whole-heartedly believe that adding fuel additives EVERY tank is not only a waste of money, it's not likely to help things. Restoring power do to deposits is one thing, adding solvents to clean already clean systems isn't going to make anything better.

    I see Nakranij mentioned techron as an additive. That's my preference as well, as a detergent additive to gasoline. I use it, though every 3rd fill-up in the truck (Chevron). It does a fine job of keeping things spit-spot.
    Last edited by Skippy; 08-06-2012 at 06:41 PM. Reason: clarification
    2006 Vortec Max 1500
    Performance:
    -Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
    Other:
    -Spray-in Bed Liner
    -Premium Sound w/lifetime Satellite Radio | Leather | Sunroof | Heated Seats
    -Limbstriping from USING the truck (those are badges of honor)

  10. #40

    Default

    I see you have a 2000 Silverado. After about 10 years, I've found that many vehicle's gaskets shrink enough to start letting oil slowly pass through.
    You might check your oil pan and see if you're leaking at the gasket. Oil will just be around the sides and greasy at the pan connection. A 1/8 turn on each pan bolt often eliminates the leak. If your bolts are tight to spec, though, don't over-tighten. Stripping a perfectly good bolt thread isn't likely with a 1/8 turn, but it helps to do things right.


    Cheers,

    -Skippy
    2006 Vortec Max 1500
    Performance:
    -Custom Tune (389HP 440 Ft/lbs Trq - Dyno'd) | Volant CAI | Magnaflow Dual-in/out Exhaust w/3" stainless pipe tips | Fully Built Transmission w/ Red Eagle Clutches & Kolene Steels w/ Corvette Servos and Stage2 Shift Kit | 35K Tranny Cooler | Mobil 1 | Royal Purple Rear Diff
    Other:
    -Spray-in Bed Liner
    -Premium Sound w/lifetime Satellite Radio | Leather | Sunroof | Heated Seats
    -Limbstriping from USING the truck (those are badges of honor)

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