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  1. #1

    Default Wiring driving lights

    Has anyone posted a thread on wiring driving or fog lights? I am not electrically inclined but would like to install my new PIAAs myself.
    Last edited by Als09Sierra; 03-28-2010 at 09:21 AM.

  2. #2
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    Default

    I can't tell from your pictures in your album, what type of PIAA lights did you get? They look like the SMR's or maybe the 510 series, the only one's I have installed are the 520's and they were easy to install. Mine came with a pre-termintaed wiring harness, which I hooked the + cables to the top post of the battery, and I hooked the - to the other top post. PIAA recommends hooking the grounds onto the - post, versus grounding it on the chassis or somewhere else. The switch for inside the cab needs one of the wires to be grounded, and then one of them is neutral and another one is hot. When wired correctly the LED on the switch will stay on green, and then your good to go!

    I wish I would have taken pictures of when I installed mine, but I didn't really think there was enough there to show anything. Good luck with your install!
    2004 Chevy Colorado
    LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap

  3. #3

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    I have the 540s, and I thought you aren't supposed to wire direct to the battery. I also thought they had to tie into the headlight power. I'll double-check the instructions to see what it says. Maybe I'm over-thinking this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Als09Sierra View Post
    I have the 540s, and I thought you aren't supposed to wire direct to the battery. I also thought they had to tie into the headlight power. I'll double-check the instructions to see what it says. Maybe I'm over-thinking this.
    I think you might be you should be able to wire them into the fuse panel (i hope there are a few blank spots still left) rather than directly to the battery that will also allow you to install an aftermarket switch to operate them... Plus less stuff hooked up to your battery...
    Mike

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    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by murdog94 View Post
    I think you might be you should be able to wire them into the fuse panel (i hope there are a few blank spots still left) rather than directly to the battery that will also allow you to install an aftermarket switch to operate them... Plus less stuff hooked up to your battery...
    There are spots open in the fuse box, but the harness includes a fuse that won't fit. Plus, I'm not sure of my ability to wire to the fuse box. Could I wire direct to the fog lights, or is that too much going through one fuse? That way I could turn them on with the fogs without the need of wiring the cheesy PIAA switch.

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    Im not to sure that might be quite a draw for that system.. You dont want to have to worry about burning wires anyhow...
    I guess id just wire per instructions and look into getting a nicer switch... That should make it s a bit more simple if something were to go out.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  7. #7

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    Just checked the instructions and I am an idiot. The lights are powered direct from the battery and the switch has to tie into the headlights (high-beams supposedly). Maybe I should've paid for the install, but I like to learn. Thanks for the reply. I appreciate your help.

  8. #8
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    hmm lesson learned on my part...
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

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    Default To give you an idea??

    Here is what my battery looked like with all of my lights, I made it look as good as possible in my situation. Now keep in mind this was for 10 6" off-road lights with relays and fuses, wireloom covers up the over 30 wires going to that battery! I ran this setup for 4 years with no problem, never fried anything and I was happy!



    Here is a front view of all of the lighting wiring, when I finished running the wires I took it to the Chevy dealer to show them how I didn't splice any wires and they didn't have a problem with them as a matter of fact they gave me a compliment on not hacking the wiring. BTW- That brass thing on the positive terminal was a quick disconnect for my lights, when It would go into storage I would just turn that and I would be all good. It keeps you from having to pull every wire off the battery.



    Just so you don't think I'm full of shi$@, all PIAA lights at a total amperage of 560 amps on stock alternator and everstart wal-mart battery.



    I almost forgot to ask you, did your lights come with the relays in the little black boxes like in my first picture? If so those are supposed to be mounted no further than 12" from the battery or source of power, which Is why I mounted mine on top of the fuse box. They get super hot and will melt plastic which Is why I mounted mine on a sheet of stainless steel, just trying to keep you from causing any damage to your truck.
    Last edited by TRPLXL2; 03-28-2010 at 04:01 PM.
    2004 Chevy Colorado
    LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap

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    That looks really good.. I like things to be that clean. Makes identifying things easier when something goes wrong...
    Last edited by murdog94; 03-28-2010 at 05:05 PM.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

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