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05-13-2010, 05:16 PM #21
Cool project. I have a 2wd to 4wd conversion in my future hopefully. 4wds are a dime a dozen up here, but are usually rusted in the style I'm looking for. 2wd farm trucks are usually real solid though.
A couple of things. First of all, that front axle is a Dana 44. Don't put a dime in it. You want a GM 10 bolt. They both have 10 bolt covers, but that's where the similarity ends. The D44 has a fill plug in the cover, 10B does not. And GM dumped the D44 starting in 80, so that thing is at least 30 something years old. The D44 sucks to set up, you really need a case spreader to do it right. And an entire extra set of carrier and pinion bearings honed to slip fit during the setup process. They also have a tendency to lose the pass side carrier bearing. The 10B has a larger diameter axle tube, and larger inner wheel bearings. And the 10B is a breeze to setup. To convert to 8 lug, you just need new/different hubs/rotors. You can actually buy them brand new from AutoZone, etc. A Tru-Trac is a great diff for that axle if you want to go offroad at all.
As for the rear axle - That's a 10.5" 14 bolt full-floater. It's really overkill for your project. You only need the FF if you will be carrying tons ON the axle. The 9.5" 14 bolt semi-floater is a better choice for you. First of all, it's much lighter, and easier to handle. The FF robs more power and fuel, due to it's extra weight and rotating mass. A Detroit Locker is not a great choice for a mostly street/tow rig. The Tru-Trac I mentioned for the front is pretty much the best choice. And it is NOT available for the FF. It is available for the SF though.
Probably not what you want to hear right now, but in the end you want to get the most practical/reliable parts.
To get your rear spring perch spacing, just measure your existing axle.
And the "weird" part is the steering arm. GM and everyone else has been using them forever. Works great.
Also, when you get new calipers for the front, get the JB7 calipers for 3/4 ton trucks. You'll want to upgrade your Master Cylinder to JB7 brake system also.
Last edited by 2COR517; 05-13-2010 at 08:23 PM.When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.
05-13-2010, 08:31 PM #22
Hey - I might be wrong about that front axle. I don't think I've ever seen a Corp 10 Bolt with a fill plug in the cover. But the under-mounted tie rod looks like a 10B. Of course, you could have a D44 housing/diff, with 10B outers. That's what my truck is.
Also - a 700R4 in a 3/4 ton Sub towing a 9000 lb trailer is probably not a good idea.
05-13-2010, 08:52 PM #23
Well, I don't know. The picture pretty much straight on to the cover has me confused. The top of the housing looks more like a Dana to me, but the bottom looks like a 10B LOL.
I give up, I've spent the last 1/2 hour trying to figure it out.
05-14-2010, 10:39 AM #24
Well, it's off the trailer now, so I can take some better pictures of it for you. I honestly don't know if it's a 10-bolt or a D44, all I know is I pulled it off an 82 Blazer, and the diff cover pattern appears to be a 10-bolt, but I could be very wrong!Christopher
1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 277K miles
1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half
There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...
Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage
05-14-2010, 11:33 AM #25
05-24-2010, 12:44 PM #26
Took a little while, but ask and you shall receive:
05-24-2010, 12:46 PM #27
I think I've figured out how I'm going to make sure the spring and shock perches get moved to the right spot on the 14-bolt axle. I'm going to bring both the 14-bolt and the old 10-bolt from the Suburban to a local welding shop, and tell them to match the positions of the perches on the 10-bolt to the 14-bolt. Just gotta make sure they don't do the exact opposite!
05-24-2010, 08:02 PM #28
Looks like a ten bolt front. Ignore all the crap I said about the Dana 44 LOL
05-25-2010, 08:46 AM #29
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
WOW!! I'm impressed, and so is everyone else.
I'm sitting here debating if I want to someday DIY pull my 213,000 mile engine(98 Suburban 2wd) and replace it with a new Goodwrench 5.7(only $2200 delivered to my curb). I'm not sure I'm up for doing this in my driveway, and it is just a straight bolt on bolt off swap(granted lots of bolts and some heavy lifting involved).
You go and attack the " don't try to convert a 2wd to 4x4 just sell yours and buy a 4x4" rule!!
Of course your body (the truck) is pretty nice, so I see your point.
Keep the pictures coming!!
Big aside-Nissan Titans came/come with some sort of souped up Dana 44. For some reason-probably too much motor too little differential- the Titans chew it up in normal service and at very low miles!! It is a big horror story for Titan owners.The claim is poor heat treatment of certain gears.Some sort of powdered metal gears- need special heat treatment.Parts made in who knows where Asia for as little as possible.
05-25-2010, 02:55 PM #30
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