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  1. #1

    Default 1984 C-10 choke question

    I have a 1984 C-10 and for what ever reason the choke light came on the other day. It came on for most of my 20 mile trip to work, then went off. When I cranked it up to come home after work, it faded in and out for a couple seconds then went out and hasn't come back on.
    I noticed there seems to be an electrical connector on the choke but I dont see a wire connector that fits it.
    http://www.coopscorner.com/84truck/1984C-10-choke.htm

    For the last few mornings the choke seems to do its job by idleing high but it is difficult or nearly impossible to get it to idle down. When I got to work this morning I took the breather off and noticed that the butterfly on the back half of the 4bll carb was shut. Isn't that butterly suppose to open up as it warms up? It was still idleing high.

    I use to adjust those chokes by lossening the 3 screws and turning the black choke until I could press the butterfy with my finger and it would shut back easy. I don't remember if that worked on the primary and secondary or just one or the other. Can this carb be adjusted like that, or do I have to rely on the electric choke.
    Thanks for the help,
    oletrkguy in SC

  2. #2

    Default

    On my 86, I had an electric choke as well. It gave me an issue one time too. When looking at the choke plate, when you give it throttle, even when the choke is engaged, it should still crack open jsut a little bit. If it doesn't, then either something's jammed or there's something wrong with the electrical part.

    If something's just jammed, then you can take some good carb. cleaner and spray it on the plate and try around the edges where it swivels open and then move it yourself to see if it loosens it up. Next, cleaning on the inside of the choke housing. When you open up the choke housing, check for any carbon deposits. If you see any, then it's likely thats what's giving you problems. If you just be careful with that spring in there not to bend it up or anything, just get a small tipped brush and some cleaning solvent and clean up the inside a bit. Then reassemble the housing and see if that fixes her up.

    That's about all I have for ya though. We wound up deciding the problem with mine was soemthing electrical with the choke. So I used that as an excuse to get rid of the stock carb and drop on the Holley 670CFM Street Avenger I had wanted for so long! HAHA!
    MY LUG NUTS REQUIRE MORE TORQUE THAN YOUR RICER MAKES! :sign0011:

    2004 Silverado 2500 "Judas"
    Crew Cab and Short Bed
    6.0L Vortec
    Diablo Predator
    True Dual Exhaust: Hooker MaxFlow Mufflers and X-Pipe
    Drop-In K&N Air Filter
    Alpine Stereo System: iDA-x303 Deck, SPS-600 Front and Rear Speakers, KTP-445 Amplifier

    Future Upgrades Include:
    Cosmetic/Other: Spray-In Bed Liner, HID head lights, Leveling Kit
    Performance: Underdrive Pulleys

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by c_m_chance View Post
    On my 86, I had an electric choke as well. It gave me an issue one time too. When looking at the choke plate, when you give it throttle, even when the choke is engaged, it should still crack open jsut a little bit. If it doesn't, then either something's jammed or there's something wrong with the electrical part.

    If something's just jammed, then you can take some good carb. cleaner and spray it on the plate and try around the edges where it swivels open and then move it yourself to see if it loosens it up. Next, cleaning on the inside of the choke housing. When you open up the choke housing, check for any carbon deposits. If you see any, then it's likely thats what's giving you problems. If you just be careful with that spring in there not to bend it up or anything, just get a small tipped brush and some cleaning solvent and clean up the inside a bit. Then reassemble the housing and see if that fixes her up.

    That's about all I have for ya though. We wound up deciding the problem with mine was soemthing electrical with the choke. So I used that as an excuse to get rid of the stock carb and drop on the Holley 670CFM Street Avenger I had wanted for so long! HAHA!
    I can't see any wires going to the choke, so I don't think my electric choke could be working at all.
    Your saying when it is completely warmed up that the front choke plate would be open and the back plate would be slighty open? I thought both plates should be open at running temp. Would it use more gas if one plate stayed closed?
    Thanks for your time,

  4. #4

    Default

    No, you're right. Once it's warmed up, both plates should be opened. But when the choke is on, the choke plate should be closed. However, even when the choke is on, if you give it a good bit of throttle, the plate should slightly crack open. If you're not seeing that happen, then for some reason the plate is stuck closed. It could be stuck closed just from corrosion or something like that. If you try to make it budge with your finger and it doesn't open up, then you should probably try and clean everything up a good bit.
    MY LUG NUTS REQUIRE MORE TORQUE THAN YOUR RICER MAKES! :sign0011:

    2004 Silverado 2500 "Judas"
    Crew Cab and Short Bed
    6.0L Vortec
    Diablo Predator
    True Dual Exhaust: Hooker MaxFlow Mufflers and X-Pipe
    Drop-In K&N Air Filter
    Alpine Stereo System: iDA-x303 Deck, SPS-600 Front and Rear Speakers, KTP-445 Amplifier

    Future Upgrades Include:
    Cosmetic/Other: Spray-In Bed Liner, HID head lights, Leveling Kit
    Performance: Underdrive Pulleys

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