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  1. #1

    Default Front Brake Killer

    My vehicle in ID'd in my signature below.

    Here's my problem. Had lots of trouble with front brake calipers sticking and dragging and burning up. Replaced three times now in 18 months (under warranty) - all NAPA parts, work done by guys who have always done right by me and whose other work has otherwise always held up and been top notch.

    At one point last year, when I went to replace the shocks, one of the new shock broke in less than a week. Again, replaced under warranty.

    Now, I've moved to a different state, but the parts are still under warranty, but I can't seem to get away from the "caliper Killer", whatever it is. Same dragging/"pull to the right" symptoms as before.

    By the way, the rotors have also replaced on both sides, along with the pads.

    Ideas??? I'm growing to hate this Suburban more every time the front braking system takes me through the process.
    Pete

    '96 Suburban 1500 LS, 5.7L, auto, 2WD, 165K miles, 100% stock.

  2. #2

    Default

    One possible reason for the brake issue could be a collapsed brake line . The rubber segment might appear to look normal , but if it has collapsed , the fluid will not flow properly and the caliper will hang...just a thought
    Last edited by cafs; 03-15-2007 at 06:15 PM.
    Carl
    Pennsylvania
    1993 GMC Yukon GT

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cafs View Post
    One possible reason for the brake issue could be a collapsed brake line . The rubber segment might appear to look normal , but if it has collapsed , the fluid will not flow properly and the caliper will hang...just a thought
    We have a winner.

    At least that would keep the pads from retracting.


    But I would think it would also trip a code, maybe.

    Not familiar with this model, I have a 94 with that monstrosity of a box with all the brake lines going into it and then back out. What a mess.

    If you have this system it could be that, the antilock is not functioning properly. But that should also throw a code, I would think.

    Technology is great, when it Works,
    And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesnít.
    Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
    94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
    86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
    79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
    86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
    See a Pattern yet?

    15 year GM assembly line worker.

  4. #4

    Default

    You're right. And now that you bring that up, I forgot to mention that my old shop already replaced the brake lines for the same reason, and the problem hasn't gone away yet.
    Pete

    '96 Suburban 1500 LS, 5.7L, auto, 2WD, 165K miles, 100% stock.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by familyman View Post
    You're right. And now that you bring that up, I forgot to mention that my old shop already replaced the brake lines for the same reason, and the problem hasn't gone away yet.
    HMMM
    Well how long ago did they replace that line?

    Also when they replaced the line and bled the system. Did they check to see if the caliper closed, went back in smoothly, (Easy)?

    Sounds more like you have a restriction in a line, but if the caliper goes back in when they replaced the line it could be the anti lock brake system not working properly.

    Technology is great, when it Works,
    And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesnít.
    Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
    94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
    86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
    79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
    86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
    See a Pattern yet?

    15 year GM assembly line worker.

  6. #6

    Default

    If you've done lines, calipers, rotors, pads. You might need fluid flushed out (sediment prob?) or proportioning valve replaced?



    Jamie

    2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
    1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E

  7. #7
    Legend
    TrailLeadr's Avatar
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    Coventry, Rhode Island
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cableguy View Post
    If you've done lines, calipers, rotors, pads. You might need fluid flushed out (sediment prob?) or proportioning valve replaced?
    I can tell you those valves suck. They have a tendency to be more disproportioning than proportioning. I've seen some replacement valves out there, that are supposed to be upgrades. At least they claim to be more suited for 'burbs than what GM put in there originally. With ABS on these vehicles now, the valves should be set to allow more braking in the rear than they have in the past, but they don't seem to have changed anything. Still seems that those valves favor the front wheels for about 70% of the braking power.

    This sounds exactly like what you're explaining.
    http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/gb0602.pdf
    Last edited by TrailLeadr; 03-16-2007 at 09:04 AM.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  8. #8

    Default

    I am very much interested. Ever since my first accident, which I blame on the ABS, but that's another story, I've been very paranoid abour braking. my 91 has ABS on the rear only, and I have yet to feel it kick in (which is best IMHO), but I want to make sure that the truck can stop as soon as humanly possible. I've been thinking about looking for bigger brakes, upgrading the rears to discs, and going with drilled and slotted rotors, etc.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

    Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage

  9. #9

    Default

    From everything you guys have tossed out, I think I'm probably looking at an ABS problem. I've noticed some wierd acting up with it on a few rare occasions.

    And, oh yeah... they did the proportioning valve too. One of my complete system overhauls was done at a rip-off Mieneke shop in Miami while we were there for hurricane Rita (Sept 2005). When I got back home to my reliable shop in Texas, they corrected the Mieneke screw-ups which included new calipers (twice), new lines, system flush and bleed, proportioning valve, and new pads. The rotors were put on by the thiefs in Miami, but my "good shop" guys verified that the rotors were installed properly and were OK.
    Pete

    '96 Suburban 1500 LS, 5.7L, auto, 2WD, 165K miles, 100% stock.

  10. #10
    Legend
    TrailLeadr's Avatar
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    Coventry, Rhode Island
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    Default

    keep us posted on your progress with this problem
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


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