My vehicle in ID'd in my signature below.
Here's my problem. Had lots of trouble with front brake calipers sticking and dragging and burning up. Replaced three times now in 18 months (under warranty) - all NAPA parts, work done by guys who have always done right by me and whose other work has otherwise always held up and been top notch.
At one point last year, when I went to replace the shocks, one of the new shock broke in less than a week. Again, replaced under warranty.
Now, I've moved to a different state, but the parts are still under warranty, but I can't seem to get away from the "caliper Killer", whatever it is. Same dragging/"pull to the right" symptoms as before.
By the way, the rotors have also replaced on both sides, along with the pads.
Ideas??? I'm growing to hate this Suburban more every time the front braking system takes me through the process.
Pete
'96 Suburban 1500 LS, 5.7L, auto, 2WD, 165K miles, 100% stock.
One possible reason for the brake issue could be a collapsed brake line . The rubber segment might appear to look normal , but if it has collapsed , the fluid will not flow properly and the caliper will hang...just a thought
Last edited by cafs; 03-15-2007 at 07:15 PM.
Carl
Pennsylvania
1993 GMC Yukon GT



We have a winner.
At least that would keep the pads from retracting.
But I would think it would also trip a code, maybe.
Not familiar with this model, I have a 94 with that monstrosity of a box with all the brake lines going into it and then back out. What a mess.
If you have this system it could be that, the antilock is not functioning properly. But that should also throw a code, I would think.
Technology is great, when it Works,
And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesn’t.
Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
See a Pattern yet?
15 year GM assembly line worker.
You're right. And now that you bring that up, I forgot to mention that my old shop already replaced the brake lines for the same reason, and the problem hasn't gone away yet.
Pete
'96 Suburban 1500 LS, 5.7L, auto, 2WD, 165K miles, 100% stock.



HMMM
Well how long ago did they replace that line?
Also when they replaced the line and bled the system. Did they check to see if the caliper closed, went back in smoothly, (Easy)?
Sounds more like you have a restriction in a line, but if the caliper goes back in when they replaced the line it could be the anti lock brake system not working properly.
Technology is great, when it Works,
And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesn’t.
Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
See a Pattern yet?
15 year GM assembly line worker.




If you've done lines, calipers, rotors, pads. You might need fluid flushed out (sediment prob?) or proportioning valve replaced?
Jamie
2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E
http://www.thefundumpster.com



I can tell you those valves suck. They have a tendency to be more disproportioning than proportioning. I've seen some replacement valves out there, that are supposed to be upgrades. At least they claim to be more suited for 'burbs than what GM put in there originally. With ABS on these vehicles now, the valves should be set to allow more braking in the rear than they have in the past, but they don't seem to have changed anything. Still seems that those valves favor the front wheels for about 70% of the braking power.
This sounds exactly like what you're explaining.
http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/gb0602.pdf
Last edited by TrailLeadr; 03-16-2007 at 10:04 AM.
Patrick
Rhode Island
I am very much interested. Ever since my first accident, which I blame on the ABS, but that's another story, I've been very paranoid abour braking. my 91 has ABS on the rear only, and I have yet to feel it kick in (which is best IMHO), but I want to make sure that the truck can stop as soon as humanly possible. I've been thinking about looking for bigger brakes, upgrading the rears to discs, and going with drilled and slotted rotors, etc.
Christopher
1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 194K miles
2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 200K miles (In 6 years...ouch)
1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco, 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half
There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...
From everything you guys have tossed out, I think I'm probably looking at an ABS problem. I've noticed some wierd acting up with it on a few rare occasions.
And, oh yeah... they did the proportioning valve too. One of my complete system overhauls was done at a rip-off Mieneke shop in Miami while we were there for hurricane Rita (Sept 2005). When I got back home to my reliable shop in Texas, they corrected the Mieneke screw-ups which included new calipers (twice), new lines, system flush and bleed, proportioning valve, and new pads. The rotors were put on by the thiefs in Miami, but my "good shop" guys verified that the rotors were installed properly and were OK.
Pete
'96 Suburban 1500 LS, 5.7L, auto, 2WD, 165K miles, 100% stock.



keep us posted on your progress with this problem
Patrick
Rhode Island
Bookmarks