


I just got my heads back from being worked yesterday. I popped them on the block, and started putting the rockers back in place. A few of the bolts went in with some resistance, but I figured it was fine. My mistake, I should have chased the threads first. Anyway, one of the bolts snapped in the head. Once that happened I got to thinking, I wasn't really applying that much torque. So I figured maybe the bolts are weak. As I was taking them back out, another snapped, and a third came out more bound up than when it went in.
obviously I really need to chase, and clean these threads. But my question is has anyone heard of rocker bolts becoming weak with age? To my knowledge these are the original bolts, and they've never been removed before. So it's unlikely they were reinstalled and over torqued at some point.
Patrick
Rhode Island



Never heard of it, but then STML can cause some problems.
I like running bolts under the wire wheel on my bench grinder when doing things like this.
As far as the bolt holes run a tap threw them and then blow them out with compressed air.
First get the broken bolts out. Now that’s the fun part.
Good luck, I hate braking bolts, studs.
Technology is great, when it Works,
And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesn’t.
Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
See a Pattern yet?
15 year GM assembly line worker.



Something tells me this is going to be a bigger project than I'd like.
I can only find the bolts at parts america, and their 4.59 each. That's little over $70 for all of them. C'mon, they're just freaking bolts!! That doesn't even include the balls. To get both bolts, and balls, it's almost $100
It's not even like these are made of grade 8 steel, not even grade 5! These people think they're selling gold here. It's cheaper to buy a stud kit, but then I need to get new rockers to fit those studs. At that point I may as well get roller rockers.
(Jamie, I know what you're thinking, but this was not some part of an evil plan. But it could work out that way.)
Call me crazy, but I don't think it will be any cheaper if I go to a dealer either. I was hoping to avoid spending more $$, I figured spending more time, but I thought I was done with the cash apsect.
The wife is "b**ching" that we should have just bought a new vehicle.
Big fun is sure to ensue.
Patrick
Rhode Island



Just replace those you broke, clean all the others, buy one extra just incase.
Sounds funny that they are braking, unless the thing overheated real bad at some point.
Good luck, I hate it when things brake.
Technology is great, when it Works,
And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesn’t.
Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
See a Pattern yet?
15 year GM assembly line worker.




I broke one on my firebird back in 01, but it was while I was driving, not installing. I was glad it happened when I was driving it on the street and not at the drag strip where I had been the day before. You might check with a local engine re-builder. The one here in Dallas gave me a replacement for free. I did end up buying a set of ARP's before I re-assembled the heads, but if your budget won't allow that, do what you can.
Gary
99 K 1500 Suburban
78 Silverado Big 10 w/factory 454
1977 Formula
1976 Trans Am
1980 Honda CB900 Custom
with my uncle's GMC 1 ton w/the 454 dually rebuild, he broke one of the rod bolts...they were apparently either weakened somehow, or being underwater for 4 weeks weakened them. The motor only had something like 60K on it, but Katrina will sure f*ck a motor/truck up....
Christopher
1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 194K miles
2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 200K miles (In 6 years...ouch)
1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco, 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half
There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...




Your on your own on this one you've done gone and P.O.'d the wife now!.
And as to your question Roller..roller...roller...roller..ur uhm excuse me. Yes I
Think you should change all studs now unfortunately do not compromise the whole engine (you know what will happen if they shear during operation) I know there expensive but it not worth the alternative??? I know speed shops make a killing on this stuff(try brand name on e-bay?)
Jamie
2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E
http://www.thefundumpster.com



It would be my luck to throw it all back together, just to have a couple bolts snap as the engine cranks for the first time. I'm going to replace them all, but I just need to get the wife on board with the rollers. I'll compromise, and just go roller tip, instead of full rollers.
Some how, I doubt she'll see that as a compromise though.
But this needs to be my last expense before getting it back on the road, otherwise the burb will be branded a money pit, and I'll never hear the end of it.
Wish me luck with that part
Patrick
Rhode Island




Jamie
2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E
http://www.thefundumpster.com
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