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Thread: U-Joint Replacement
06-03-2010, 07:44 AM #1
'91 Silverado, 350 V8 5.7L
Multi joint drive shaft.
I shreeded the rear U-joint the other night (the one connecting to the rear axle).
Now I am haveing a really hard time trying to get what I think is the proper replacement part on this thing.
The one I am replacing appears to have all "Inside Lock-Ups"
But the one that I got from Advance Auto looks to be similar to my bad one, but the Lock-Ups are outside, not inside.
If you look at Advance Auto's Site, it is the Neapco U-joint, P/N: 2-4800
I had purchased the 2-3011BF originially, but the bearings have a larger diameter then the one that went bad.
Where as the 2-4800 U-joint, seems to have a similar diameter....but like I said the Lock-ups are different.
Anyone have any advice on this?
06-03-2010, 07:52 AM #2
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- Cloquet, Minnesota, United States
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To be honest with you I just had my rear driveshaft rebuilt.. After having the same bearing problem as you are.. I never did get it figured out i let the shop that gets the work that i dont want to do handle it..Mike
1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).
2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)
2011 F-150 Crew 4X4
"Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"
06-03-2010, 09:25 AM #3
I was able to talk with a Tech Support person at Neapco.
Looks like for me I need their 2-3011 U-joint.
So I will get that one and try him.
06-03-2010, 12:14 PM #4
Not sure when GM started it, but they use a plastic injection for the factory retainers for the OE u-joints, so that plastic has to be melted out with a torch, a heat gun just doesnt seem to get it hot enough.99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
06-03-2010, 04:56 PM #5
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- Mar 2007
- Grand Prairie, Texas
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Plastic injection on the U-joints started sometime in the early 80's and your right it needs a torch to melt it out.
Beating or pressing the bearing out will only bend the D/S ears.
06-04-2010, 06:22 AM #6
I am guessing they stopped doing that, because I was able to drive out the two bearings that were still in the drive shaft.
The other two were shredded when the joint broke :D
So that made getting the thing a part a lot easier.
The 2-3011 was the u-joint for my truck.
Got it put in and driveshaft back in place. Working great.
There has been a squeaking noise for a while, which I thought might be the rear brakes.
But it appears it was the U-joint going bad......
The squeaky noise is now gone.
So was able to kill 2 birds w/ one stone on this job. Which is always nice.
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