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  1. #1
    Sr. Engineer
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    Default U-Joint Replacement

    Ok,
    '91 Silverado, 350 V8 5.7L
    Multi joint drive shaft.
    I shreeded the rear U-joint the other night (the one connecting to the rear axle).

    Now I am haveing a really hard time trying to get what I think is the proper replacement part on this thing.

    The one I am replacing appears to have all "Inside Lock-Ups"
    But the one that I got from Advance Auto looks to be similar to my bad one, but the Lock-Ups are outside, not inside.
    If you look at Advance Auto's Site, it is the Neapco U-joint, P/N: 2-4800
    I had purchased the 2-3011BF originially, but the bearings have a larger diameter then the one that went bad.
    Where as the 2-4800 U-joint, seems to have a similar diameter....but like I said the Lock-ups are different.

    Anyone have any advice on this?

  2. #2
    Legend
    murdog94's Avatar
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    Cloquet, Minnesota, United States
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    Default

    To be honest with you I just had my rear driveshaft rebuilt.. After having the same bearing problem as you are.. I never did get it figured out i let the shop that gets the work that i dont want to do handle it..
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  3. #3
    Sr. Engineer
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    Default

    I was able to talk with a Tech Support person at Neapco.
    Looks like for me I need their 2-3011 U-joint.

    So I will get that one and try him.

  4. #4
    Legend

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    Feb 2008
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    Red Wing, Minnesota, United States
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    Default

    Not sure when GM started it, but they use a plastic injection for the factory retainers for the OE u-joints, so that plastic has to be melted out with a torch, a heat gun just doesnt seem to get it hot enough.
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
    Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
    285/75/16
    ___________________________
    Jason

  5. #5

    Default

    Plastic injection on the U-joints started sometime in the early 80's and your right it needs a torch to melt it out.
    Beating or pressing the bearing out will only bend the D/S ears.

  6. #6
    Sr. Engineer
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    Default

    I am guessing they stopped doing that, because I was able to drive out the two bearings that were still in the drive shaft.
    The other two were shredded when the joint broke :D
    So that made getting the thing a part a lot easier.

    The 2-3011 was the u-joint for my truck.
    Got it put in and driveshaft back in place. Working great.

    There has been a squeaking noise for a while, which I thought might be the rear brakes.
    But it appears it was the U-joint going bad......
    The squeaky noise is now gone.
    So was able to kill 2 birds w/ one stone on this job. Which is always nice.

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