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  1. #1

    Default spun rod bearing

    what would cause me to spin my rod bearing i just reringed the motor and repalced them and now they are spun could i of done something wrong? or what causes that to happen

  2. #2

    Default

    Did you replace the bearings with new when you did the rings?
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

  3. #3

    Default

    yes that is what is throwing me off most of them are bad like i ran it without oil but i have always had oil in there

  4. #4

    Default

    than would a 2001 motor mount in that 97

  5. #5

    Default

    Did you use Plasti-Gage to measure the clearance when you did your bearings? I presume you had oil pressure?

    I'm guessing your current motor is a 350? A newer 350 will go in no problem.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by somonenew1994 View Post
    what would cause me to spin my rod bearing i just reringed the motor and repalced them and now they are spun could i of done something wrong? or what causes that to happen
    Did you check the bearing clearance w/ plasti-gauge? it helps you determine if you need oversize bearings to make up for journal wear. Installing new standard bearings against a worn journal leaves the room for them to spin...
    Still Loyal to GM after all these years...:shocked:
    2006 Impala LT 3.5L
    2005 Silverado WT small cab/longbed 4x4 4.3L V6
    1999 Grand Am 3.4L in TX w/ our youngest
    1993 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4 door 4x4 'Ole Rusty' - 'SOLD'
    1988 S-10 small cab/longbed HT3.4L Crate Engine
    1970 Nova 250 I-6, factory 3 sp floor shifter.
    1968 Chevelle 'Nomad' Wagon 250 I-6 w/ 3 on da' tree.

  7. #7
    Jr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Muddy Creek, Va & Hunting Quarters NC
    Posts
    225

    Default

    didn't put them in backwards did you?

  8. #8

    Default

    alright so hear is the deal they were just faulty bearings i called the company i got the from and they said this isnt the first time this has happen. So i priced out to get my crank turned which is going to cost 100 and than another 80 for all new bearing or i could get a autozone reman for 175 with all the bearing so looks like i am going to be going to auozone soon

  9. #9
    Legend

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
    Posts
    1,613

    Default

    If money wasn't a problem-ha,ha like that is ever the case- you can buy a brand newGoodwrench GM motor 5.7 for either a TBI(95 and earlier) or the 96-99- for just $2150!!!

    This is the HUGE advantage owners of "older" GM trucks have over owners of anything else. We can buy -NEW, GENUINE GM NO CS CUT RATE PARTS- motors for cheap prices.Heck, you can get a new GM motor new GM trans for about $4200-try that with anything else.A Toyota would cost maybe $12000 for same,same, Ford or Dodge maybe $8000+. It is actually worth replacing the drivetrain of an old GM(with a good body, not one of those NE or Midwest rust buckets-no offense to you snowbelt guys)- never worth it with other brands.

    Yeah- $2150 whole new motor-just bolt on your dist, water pump accessories, gaskets and off you go.
    New heads, new crank, new everything-no worries about having to redo heads, or rings, bores, valve guides, valve guide seals.No worries about Chicken S&%$ aftermarket bearings, or machining the crank just right.

    Unfortunately, $$ is usually a problem, and $175 beats $2150.

    Someday,I would like to replace my 1998 Suburban's 5.7(213,000 miles) with a new Goodwrench.It still runs great, no oil use, great mpg(hy), but 200,000 miles is plenty of miles.

    Broke now, so the motor will have to wait.

    Good Luck with your motor
    Charlie
    1998 suburban-
    1/2 ton

    199500 miles
    River
    Ridge,LA

  10. #10

    Default

    That works, especially if you plan on keeping the truck! I put a GMPP HT3.4L crate engine in my S-10 after the original 2.8L developed a rod knock at 196,269 miles.

    It was dad's truck and I knew what he had replaced and I figured the $1,800.00 for the longblock crate would give me a good 6 - 8 years instead of spending the same on another truck that could/would develope a similar problem in a few years.

    I ran it another 7 years b/4 the rust got ahead of me and sold it w/ 306.000 miles on the rest of the running gear. W/ the new clutch & fluids the swap cost me around $2,200.00 or just a little over $700.00 a year.

    Three years later the guy I sold it to 'bought' an inspection sticker and is still using it for a short commute and to haul around home improvement items. I think he had to do a fuel pump & a cheap set of Pep Boys tires...

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