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  1. #1
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Default Starts but Stalls out

    Good Morning all I need some help [I] drove my 1989 GMC Suburban home on Friday and she stalled out in the drive way. I have no idea whats wrong with she. I tried to crank this morning and she firer right up I let she run for about 15Min and when I put her in gear she stalled again. Where should I start?????

  2. #2
    Legend unplugged's Avatar
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    Exclamation Back to basics

    Common areas for the burb are fuel issues from clogged filters or bad fuel pump, ignition problems from fouled plugs, bad wires, cap rotor or coil. Here is a site with some good info. Start with the basics and isolate your problem by a process of elimination.

    From: http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/index.html
    Only a few basic things are necessary for the engine operation

    1. Fuel (To be exact proper air/fuel ratio, normally it is about 14/1)
    2. Spark (in appropriate moment)
    3. Proper timing (the valves should open and close only in appropriate time)
    4. Compression in the cylinders (Normal compression is 120 - 170 psi. The engine won't start if the compression is lower than 70 - 80 psi.)

    Plus, to start the engine, the battery, the starter and the starter circuit should be OK.
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  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by unplugged View Post
    Common areas for the burb are fuel issues from clogged filters or bad fuel pump, ignition problems from fouled plugs, bad wires, cap rotor or coil. Here is a site with some good info. Start with the basics and isolate your problem by a process of elimination.

    From: http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/index.html
    Only a few basic things are necessary for the engine operation

    1. Fuel (To be exact proper air/fuel ratio, normally it is about 14/1)
    2. Spark (in appropriate moment)
    3. Proper timing (the valves should open and close only in appropriate time)
    4. Compression in the cylinders (Normal compression is 120 - 170 psi. The engine won't start if the compression is lower than 70 - 80 psi.)

    Plus, to start the engine, the battery, the starter and the starter circuit should be OK.

    Nice site unplugged (I saved that one)
    Not much more to add to that, I agree. Start with obvious tune up stuff if ya don't have much history. Since ya just got it home.
    When I buy a new (used) vehicle I usually plan for this stuff anyway so I can start from ground 0. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, battery, charging system and fuel filter are usually first.



    Jamie

    2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
    1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E

  4. #4
    Legend unplugged's Avatar
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    Default

    Yes, when I bought my 93 a couple of years ago, I put plugs, 8mm wires, cap, & rotor. Holding off on the coil right now. Upgraded the plug looms with some nice chrome ones that bolt to the valve covers. Haven't decided if I going with a MSD setup or Jacobs ignition.

  5. #5

    Default

    Go MSD!!
    I think that you have a load problem. It may be in the transmission even. If the truck starts up and runs fine while idling, but then dies when you put it in gear, that would indicate to me that there's either something horribly wrong in the tranny, or the motor is just running enough to keep it free-rolling, but when there's any load or strain on the motor, it just gives out. I'm not sure what to look for to resolve this problem, but a complete tune-up won't hurt unless you botch the tune-up somehow.

    Come to think of it, the injectors may not be adjusting their pulse width to accomodate the additional strain on the motor. Hope this helps...
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



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  6. #6
    Legend unplugged's Avatar
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    Default

    Could be a vacuum leak too.

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