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Thread: Engine rebuild
04-09-2007, 10:54 AM #1
I'm nearing the end of my rebuild. I'll be glad when it's done. We really stretched ourselves out financially over the past 12 months. This is most of the reason my engine rebuild is taking so long. I get some work done, and then I need to scrape together some more $$ to do some more.
Just waiting to get some money up for the roller rockers, and stud kit. Then it should be smooth sailing from there. I suppose I could install the engine, and worry about the roller rockers, studs, and push rods later. (just realized that...)
In the mean time I just was poking around with Desktop Dyno 2000. It's probably not the most accurate. If I have the chance I figure I'm going to see about getting the 'burb dyno'ed once the engine is back in.
But the estimates on DD2000 say that I should expect about 278hp/418ft-lbs. vs. the 220hp/385ft-lbs from the factory.
It doesn't seem like much, but the last time I sent the burb in for an inspection it failed, and they gave me a paper with the run down on the findings of the inspection. It also stated that the engine was putting out 90hp.
I know the engine seemed kind sluggish, but I didn't figure it would be that low, but I guess it wouldn't surprise me. I never asked how they got that figure.
DD2000 doesn't take the roller rockers or roller lifters into consideration, so even though I don't have the roller lifters I'm sure I'll have a few extra horses more than the estimated figures with the roller rockers.
It does have an option for headers, and from the stock headers to large tube I should see figures in the range of 337hp/469ft-lbs.
That's something I can live with
04-09-2007, 11:12 AM #2
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- Arlington, Texas, United States
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I understand about the finances keeping projects to a minimum. Looks like you're getting near the finish line, keep going!
10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
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99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
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04-09-2007, 11:24 AM #3
I've got an idea! Do one of those car wrap advertisements with GMTruckclub all over front to back on the Burb, and when site traffic goes nuts from R.I. Steve can cut you a big cheque. Tada truck competed! J/K.
Now that I'm done being a fruit cake...I really like that dyno program you've got. Did it cost alot? and can you h/u to the PCM?
2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E
04-09-2007, 12:54 PM #4
Thanks to Jamie's suggestion I have stainless steel roller rockers on their way from Ebay.
I would have gone with Aluminum, but I hear aluminum tends to fatigue after a time from the heat. I'll take strength over weight any day.
Last edited by TrailLeadr; 04-09-2007 at 01:21 PM.
04-09-2007, 03:04 PM #5
04-09-2007, 03:36 PM #6
I have 16 stainless valves hanging around from Mildon, brand new but I don't know what kind of cylinder head they fit onPeter Smet
04-09-2007, 07:56 PM #7
04-11-2007, 08:38 AM #8
Well, I'm eagerly awaiting my roller rockers to come today. UPS states they're on time for delivery today. But it seems like my house is the last house on the route for both UPS, and the USPS, even though I'm in the middle of the street. Makes no sense to me. I probably won't get it until around 5pm. So it's going to be a long day while I wait for the delivery.
04-11-2007, 09:39 AM #9
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- Grand Prairie, Texas
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I think you'll be happy with the S/S roller rockers, I had aluminium on my last truck and had fatigue issues after a while. I've run S/S on a few engines and now on my 97 7.4 and have no issues after high mileage. The weight trade off isnt bad, if it was a race car that needed the rpm's to build up faster it might make a difference, for street driving you should be fine.
04-11-2007, 10:04 AM #10
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