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  1. #1

    Default Selling my 2005 Silverado's factory head unit

    I'm selling my factory head unit out of my 2005 Chevy Silverado. It's a CD player/radio/cassette combo. The truck has the Bose audio system in it so I'm not sure if that means there is a difference between this stereo and and a truck without the Bose setup.

    The stereo does have a couple of problems though. First off, it won't load or eject a CD. When you push the CD in, it will begin to accept it but when the disc is almost all the way in it stops where it is and the unit continues to make the noise like it's trying to load it in still. I've pushed it in farther with a credit card and it still would load correctly. Ejecting is also a problem. After forcing the disc in and hitting eject, the unit tries to eject it but after getting the CD barely out, the disc stops coming out and the unit makes the noise like its still trying to eject it but to no avail. I used some small needle nose pliers to get it the rest of the way out. I've only had the truck for a few months and this problem was present when I bought it. Therefore, I have no clue if it will play a CD if loaded properly or not. It may be a simple fix such as some small part coming off of a track or it may be worse.

    The other problem is minor in that the "Band" button and the button directly to the right of it (which I never use and can't recall what it is for) don't light up with the headlights on.

    Aside from those two issues (and never testing the cassette deck either) it works great. It picks up stations very well, all the buttons work, and it sounds great. It has very little button wear as well.

    Just let me know if you might be interested in purchasing it. As it is now, I'd like to get $70 for it. I plan on getting an aftermarket to replace it within the week so if no one gets it before then I'll probably try to fix the CD loading problem on my own after I remove it and repost it if I can get it working properly.
    WAR EAGLE!!!

  2. #2

    Default

    I don't mean any offense by this, but $70.00 is about what I would expect to pay for a factory head unit that works 100%.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by moogvo View Post
    I don't mean any offense by this, but $70.00 is about what I would expect to pay for a factory head unit that works 100%.
    Oh, I didn't know that. I thought a fully functional one was going for over $100. What would you value this one at if you don't mind me asking?
    WAR EAGLE!!!

  4. #4

    Default

    Disclaimer: This is only one man’s opinion…


    With Those problems, to be honest the only reason I would buy this is to trade in the truck and at that point I would not pay more than $30 if that. I could go to a local junk yard and pay $50 for one that works all I would have to do is pull it myself. For some products on eBay are expensive because of convenes.
    Tim Walters (Curky)

    Wrangler AT/S 265/70R17 - Trail-FX window vents - Husky fitted splash guards - Silver Star zXe - Leveling kit -

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks for the input. I'll see if I can fix everything when I pull it out and then I might repost it if I can get it close to 100%. If not, looks like my best bet may be to just keep it as a spare in case the aftermarket ones dies on me down the road.
    WAR EAGLE!!!

  6. #6

    Default

    I believe that if someone buys it they will have to have it programmed to their truck. It is a integrated antitheft device. It is locked to your VIN and will not work in another truck unless reprogrammed or unlocked. the dealers charge between $100-$350 for this. You can fix that CD player for less then $100. Here is a link to a thread that I posted when I repaired mine http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...#axzz2Ayhs9zf0

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  7. #7

    Default

    That is correct Pikey. So the initial expense of buying the deck and the added expense of having it unlocked at the dealer... For me, it would have to be cheap... Like $15 to $20. I have to say, though, that I personally wouldn't buy a broken one. It would have to be in pristine condition for me, and then I might give $50 to $75 for it at the MOST.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

  8. #8

    Default

    when I was doing the research to repair mine, I found that a completely working unit unlocked was going for around $600. He can contact one of those companies and see if they are interested in purchasing it. I would call http://oem-auto-accessory.com and see if he was interested. From my dealings with him I found the owner to be a straight to the point honest guy. He will tell him what it is worth or sell him the new mech to fix it. I am assuming that the motor for the mechanism is going bad. you can not replace these. you have to put a entire new mechanism in. It is pretty easy to do. After you get it apart call the place I listed above. He will help you identify which one you have. Then tell him that you would like to buy one without the circuit board. They are about $70 less then the mechanism with the board. Then you take your board off and put it on the new one.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  9. #9

    Default

    Not sure when the last time I used a factory head unit was

  10. #10

    Default

    In my experience, it is usually the laser optic that gets whacked out of alignment by the truck's vibrations or the lens gets too dirty to "see" the CD. Sometimes a good cleaning is all ya need. No, those CD cleaner kits that come with a CD with a brush glued to it do not work! You would have to open the radio up and clean the optic with a windex-moistened cotton swab... Use LIGHT pressure to avoid getting it out of alignment. Then buff it off afterwards to get the streaks off of the lens.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

    Check out my image gallery HERE.



    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good." ~Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

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