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View Poll Results: Who is your preferred Cold Air Inake brand?

Voters
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  • K&N

    18 50.00%
  • Volant

    3 8.33%
  • AEM

    2 5.56%
  • Airraid

    2 5.56%
  • Injen

    1 2.78%
  • AFE

    3 8.33%
  • Iceman

    0 0%
  • Vibrant

    0 0%
  • Other (unlisted)

    2 5.56%
  • Don't have/want CAI

    5 13.89%
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Thread: Perferred CAI

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailLeadr View Post
    Awesome contribution to this thread!!

    Thanks for sharing that with us. Hopefully it will help some of our new vehicle owners from making a poor choice in CAI type, and save a lot of embarrassment at the dealer.

    Do you know if the MAF can be cleaned with a degreaser, or brake cleaner to remove the oil fouling?

    Only use a MAF specific cleaner or a cleaner that is safe for sensitive elctrical connections. Do not use carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or other harsh chemicals. CRC makes both a MAF specific cleaner as well as a sensitive electrical connections aerosol cleaner.

    I did clean the MAF on my 05( like 5 times )and it would help some at first but in short order it would foul the sensor out again. This leads to a lot of driveability issues on GM trucks. Effects everything from the idle, to performance, to believe it or not shifting( yes shifting - it actually effects it ). My 05 acted like it needed an excorsism! I finally removed the oiled filter( stock replacement drop in K&N ), cleaned the MAF AGAIN, and put a paper filter back. Probalem went away and didn't come back.

    On my 05 you could actually see where the oil was being sucked off the filter and into the air tube and thus right on to the MAF. This was a factory oiled filter as well that was bought new. I did not clean it and then over oil it or anything. Bottom line is the MAF is just too close to the air filters on these GM trucks to use an oiled filter. Use a CAI of your choice but whatever you do make sure to get a dry filter.

    I couldn't find the most up to date TSB on it but here is an older one from back when GM 1st started doing TSB's on this issue. Just to give you an idea...

    Info - Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air Filter #04-07-30-013A - (Jan 25, 2005)Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/ Over- Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air Filter
    2005 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks

    2005 and Prior Saturn Models

    2003-2005 HUMMER H2

    This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years and to clarify warranty coverage. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-013 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).

    DO THIS
    DON'T DO THIS

    First, Inspect the vehicle for a reusable aftermarket excessivelyover- oiled air filter
    DO NOT repair MAF sensors under warranty if concerns result from the use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter.


    The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
    • Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On

    • Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)

    • Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range

    The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.

    When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over- oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.

    The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.

    If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.

    Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not considered to be warrantable repair items.
    Last edited by NHSilverado; 04-21-2007 at 09:50 PM.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailLeadr View Post
    Do you know if the MAF can be cleaned with a degreaser, or brake cleaner to remove the oil fouling?
    MAF's should only be cleaned with Sensor Safe Electrical Contact Cleaner.
    A favorite I've been using for years is "CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner" which can be bought at most auto parts stores.
    Other type cleaners could possibly kill the sensor, most petroleum based cleaners add to the problem by leaving a coating on the sensor and attracting dirt or causing damage to plastic pieces in the intake system.

    As posted before there are very few True CAI's on the market. Most CAI's draw warm air from the engine compartment and are little more than an open element filter and large bore supply tube. Factory airbox's normally draw from behind the headlights or around the front corner of the vehicle and supply colder outside air. The largest noticeable difference with most CAI's is more noise, this usually convinces people the vehicle is faster when in reality some CAI's have actually been proven to slow the vehicle down.

    There are a few companies that make cowl induction hoods that combined with an air intake mounted at the cowl can create a terrific cold air package.
    By placing the air intake at the cowl of the vehicle you use vacuum to draw air in from across the cowl, vacuum cools the air entering the intake (note air coming from the cowl area is already the coldest air across the surface of the vehicle due to pressure variances), then Boyles Law takes effect by compressing and warming the air, but also makes it unstable. The unstable air then enters the filter plenum where it is stabilized, allowed to expand thereby cooling the air some but retains pressure. The pressurized air then moves into the tubing between the filter and throttle body (note: most factory air intakes are corrigated before and after the filter to further stabilize the air and create a swirling effect) at the throttle body/manifold the air expands and cools again, then is distributed to the intake valves. (cold normally aspirated air contains many more oxygen molecules than warm air).

  3. #13
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    TrailLeadr's Avatar
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    It looks like it's pretty safe to say that K&N won that round hands down with 50% of the votes.
    There were some very good points made by a few of our members that are worth making this a sticky!!

    Next up. Let's see how our members feel about Headers!
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  4. #14
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    About a year and a half ago, AEM introduced their DRYFLOW filter. It is made of a fine plastic mesh with an internal support to keep it from collapsing. All that is required to clean it is water. It needs no oil, so it will NOT foul your mass airflow sensor. It also filters down to one micron, and still breathes like a cotton filter. AEM makes kits, complete cold air setups, and also sells Dryflow filters separately for those of us who already have an intake. In my opinion, this is the best advance in filter design since cotton. I would highly advise anyone interested in a perfomance filter to look into them.
    -John
    If it ain't loud, I ain't interested.
    '93 Chevy Suburban K1500
    '04 GMC Envoy XL

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