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  1. #1

    Default 99 tahoe shutter

    Hi guys,
    This is my first time on here, so here I go... I'm having trouble with the tahoe when I get up to 70 mph. It starts to shutter sometimes a little, sometimes really rough. I let off the accelerator and coast down to 60 and it smooths out. Today it shook so badly I didn't think i was going to make it to the next exit. The techs I've talked w/ say it could be the torque converter, others say its a misfire. The scanner shows misfire on cylinder 1 & 2. It starts rough in the morning, and today w/ scanner it showed misfire in 3 & 4. It has new plugs, wires, etc. and several bottles of 3M fuel injector cleaner.
    I had a tech out w/ me today and it reproduced for him... After looking at scanner he said he's baffled. The tahoe is a 99 and has 205,000 on it... Not sure what to do next.

  2. #2
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    Eddie Z71's Avatar
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    Hi, and welcome to the site! Glad to have you here! I hope someone here will be able to help you with this! Good luck, and keep us posted on how, and what is going on!
    Eddie , 2000 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (old style)

  3. #3
    Jr. Apprentice
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    Default

    This is a crazy coincidence. My 99 suburban with 217K miles started the same thing (Cylinder #4) about 5K miles ago. I've changed the plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and no improvement. I just started searching for possible reasons and I've found several from some google searches.

    1. Fuel pump - mine was replaced about 60K miles ago, so I doubt that it's the problem but I'm keeping it in mind.
    2. Crankshaft Position Sensor - One person replaced a dozen parts without improvement, then replaced the CPS and it fixed it.
    3. Lower Intake Manifold Gasket - I had this replace at about 70K, but it's possible it has gone bad again. I'll spray some starting fluid around it and see if the engine races.
    4. Ignition coil - I think I'll try this first. I've never replaced it and it can't hurt to have a new one.
    5. One person said to make certain #4 ignition wire is not parallel and close to an other ignition wire (remove it from the guide).

    These are just a few comments that I found. Seems like the CPS, manifold gasket and ignition coil are the most likely.

    Let me know if you learn of any more possibilities and if you are able to get it fixed.

  4. #4
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    murdog94's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  5. #5

  6. #6

    Default

    Welcome to the club.

  7. #7

    Default

    Since this is an actual question, I'm going to move this to powertrain.

    While I know the 4L60E has TCC issues (something in the valve body, I believe), where the computer is actually reporting misfires, I'd be inclined to follow that line of diagnosis. Because the misfires seem to jump from cylinder to cylinder rather than consistently being the same cylinder, I'd look at something that affects all cylinders.

    Someone suggested fuel pump. Probably the first thing I'd check would be fuel pressure (if for no other reason than it is easy to check). If the fuel pressure is low while it is stumbling, then you can further diagnose the fuel system to determine why. If the fuel pressure is where it should be (55-60 psi) while shuddering, then go on to something else.

    I'm assuming this '99 Tahoe has the 5.7 L CSFI engine. This era CSFI is known to have issues with the factory "fuel injectors" (really poppet valves). I haven't seen many good diagnostics for them, but GM (and others) sells a redesigned "spider" that uses real injectors. This might be worth looking into.

    A surprisingly common cause of misfires on this engine is the distributor gear (I'm assuming that the distributor gear was not included in the "etc." of "new plugs, wires, etc."). As long as you mark the distributor and otherwise pay attention so you can put it in exactly as it came out, it isn't difficult to check: simply pull the distributor out and inspect the gear.

    That should give you a couple of things to look at.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  8. #8
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    Default

    I had the same issue a year ago on my 99 suburban and the distributer was cracked. They are plastic so it can happen pretty easy
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
    Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
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    Jason

  9. #9
    Jr. Apprentice
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    Great info! Thanks MrShorty. Several additional questions.

    My misfire code is always cylinder #4, whereas 7Howie's has moved around. So our diagnoses may be completely different, even though the loss of power and shuttering symptom is the same? If mine misfires on #4 consistently, then would a distributor gear make sense still? Is this typically related to the poppet issues?

    Other than an obvious crack or chip, how do I tell if a distributor gear is bad?

    Thanks.

  10. #10

    Default

    poppet issue could easily be isolated to a single cylinder like that. Distributor gear would be more for a random misfire. Most bad distributor gears I've seen are pretty obviously worn (teeth chipped or rounded etc.). I expect there's a specification for "play" in the rotor that could help, but I don't know that spec.

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