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  1. #1

    Default Clicking coming from the back of engine

    i have a 94 1500 chevy silverado with 128xxx miles on it been driven like it was made out of class for years. i recentely had it worked on because the fitting on the hose that comes off of the intake into the heater core broke so i couldn't keep coolant in my system. but when you break the hose loose the threads will break it is designed that way. I knew what i had to do but i didn't have the tools to take the threads out so i took it in. the shop that worked on it did not know that it will break.
    So they took off the intake manifold so they can remove the threads without having anything fall down. I got my truck back and the next day it have no oil pressure. it would start at 40 when the engine is cold and when it warms up it will drop down to about 5 to 10. I had to push the truck because i needed to get to school but it was still acting up.
    My dad say how bout we change the oil because i had 3000 miles plus on it and when im changing it there's so much grit in the oil. Its impossible to get that much dirt in a closed oil system. we change the oil and it doesn't help. we drove it long enough to have it warm up and no change.
    we look down and the harmonic balancer is wobbling, which makes us think my camshaft is going out. we dropped the oil pan and we find a piece of the thread that was broken off from the previous repairs. we took it back in the shop so they could fix it but all they would do was flush out the engine and do a pressure test. We dont think they did a pressure test because it wasn't in their notes. when we first took it in it was just a clicking every couple revolutions but now its a knocking that is constant they both are coming from the back of the engine. I believe that is it. If you have any ideas on what it is please don't be afraid to speak up. we are going to tear the engine down in the next two weeks.

  2. #2
    Sr. Apprentice 38racn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Brighton, Illinois


    Is your truck a 5.7L w/ auto trans? Your post is covering alot. You've started at the intake, then down to oil pan, then up front to harmonic balancer and ending with knock coming from the back of the engine.
    A wobbling harmonic balancer is not caused by the cam. Could the problem be the lower pulley? Whatever the issue, engine balance is vital and must be addressed immediately.
    Low oil pressure? Pressure at startup indicates a good pump with possibly a dirty sump screen, or worse, a spun bearing. Without oil pressure your motor is going to give up soon. So again, the problem needs immediate attention because an engine never quits when sitting comfortable at home.
    As for the knock. Knocks can be very deceiving, they usually indicate a serious problem and they never go away without repairs. If you have an automatic transmission, check your torque converter bolts. There's really only 2 ways to locate a knock. Crawl under the truck while it's running and listen carefully or disassemble the motor while checking all specs and clearances.
    By the way, why did the shop see a need to flush the system if you'd already had the pan off? What was there to flush?
    By reading your post I think you have lots of ability, some basic knowledge and minimal experience. Start buying tools and repair manuals. Buddy up with those who spend a lot of time fixing cars and trucks. Won't be long you'll have the experience and won't need a shop to diagnose problems.

    2003 GMC 2500HD 496 (8.1L) Allison Trans. 305K

    1995 GMC 1500HD Suburban 6.5L Diesel 145K

    1982 Toyota 4W/D Powered by GMPP 350 Crate with MSD ignition, Holley carb, Pro Comp electric fuel pump, Be Cool aluminum radiator; TH350 transmission w/ B&M Quicksilver; Marlin Crawler transfer case w/ Front Range Twinstick; telescopic driveshafts; auto lockers; 9" Skyjacker suspension lift w/ Bilstein shocks all sitting on 37" Super Swampers.

  3. #3


    Could be bearings in your u joint if they are really bad they will click at low speeds

  4. #4
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    B.C. Canada


    Hi there, If you are talking about the coolant bypass hose in the front of the intake manifold, the shop did not need to remove the intake manifold to fix this. However since they have removed the intake manifold, they would have to remove the old
    gasket material. Lots of shops use spinning friction disks to do this. These disks, if not used carefully, drop all the material into the engine valley. This has been known to damage engine crankshaft bearings. Not to say this is the case but I have seen it many times. Once the damage is done there's no quick fix.

  5. #5


    X2 what GMGuy said. Sounds like maybe sloppy mechanics.

  6. #6
    murdog94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Cloquet, Minnesota, United States
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    X3.. Also it sounds like they may have installed the distributor a little hard and possibly damaged the oil pump driveshaft. they are nylon and wear out easly.. But with the clicking you are talking about it sounds like something got in that really shouldnt have.


    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

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