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  1. #31
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    Kansas City, MO
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    ok, got new rotor, cap, and plug wires on (new plugs were done earlier).

    Same symptoms:

    starts right up and idles nicely.
    when trying to give gas and hold at 1k rpms, it starts to "chug" and gets progressively worse. Letting off the gas and it struggles to get back to idling smooth, but does after a few seconds.

    when holding rpms at 2500, it seems to do ok, but letting off gas and it repeats the struggle-to-idle.

    I haven't done any throttle body cleaning (saw someone doing something like that when watching a seafoam vid)...could that be it?

  2. #32
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    You might have a weak or semi plugged idle ir control valve. I would remove it and clean it and its passage way for sure.. And cleaning the TBI not be to bad of an idea.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  3. #33
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    Aug 2010
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    Kansas City, MO
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    OK, I will see what a new IAC valve costs and if cheap, go ahead w/ that. EGR valve was another that came up on some searching?

    Will try to figure out what that seafoam stuff was they used for the TBI too and get that done.

  4. #34
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    Aug 2010
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    It was about $100 for a new IAC valve and EGR valve...will try to get installed tomorrow night...fingers crossed!

  5. #35
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    Good luck and let us know,.

  6. #36
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    2 steps forward...one step back...

    One of those 2 things (IAC or EGR) fixed that issue w/ maintaining low RPMs. (sweet!)

    now it feels like i'm missing a cylinder or two. I think I may have crossed some plug wires.

    I'll dig through the book to see if I can find the firing order and dist cap map stuff, but anyone have that info handy? I don't remember seeing it from my flipping through previously...

    NVM, found it!

    ---------- Post added at 09:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:54 PM ----------

    w00t!
    I had 1 and 7 swapped on the distributer cap. Fixed it and now she purrs like a kitten!
    I think I've built up confidence that the engine will last a while. Now to get some other things done to assure best chance of survival/safety on longer/faster drives.
    Phase 1:
    New -
    - battery
    - wipers
    - radiator cap
    - plugs
    - wires
    - distributer cap
    - rotor
    - air filter
    - oil/oil filter
    - fuel filter
    - IAC valve
    - EGR valve
    - fuel in tank
    - Seafoam'd oil/gas/brake-booster-vacuum
    - Transmission oil top-off
    - front transfer case top-off (rear was ok)
    Phase 2:
    - Transmission fluid/filter change
    - Radiator flush
    - Brake fluid flush
    - Oil change (after a few hundred miles)
    - 4x4 check
    - A/C check
    - Brake check (rotors/pads/etc)
    - new tires
    Anything else?

    thanks again for all your help thus far!
    Last edited by mr24shoe; 08-26-2010 at 08:02 PM.

  7. #37
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    Good to hear...

  8. #38

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    First, the K is 4X4. Second, my suburban has on the fire wall a fuel pump relay, it has a red wire that if you connect voltage to (wire jumper from the battery to the red wire) it'll run the fuel pump and you won't have to turn the key to on. When you turn the key to on the pump only runs for a few seconds. Finally, to turn the motor over manually there is a center bolt on the crank pulley that you can put a breaker bar on that will turn the motor over. If you want to make it really easy pull the plugs out! If you go the route of replacing the motor you have several options.

    1) Crate motor- fairly expensive and sometimes not everything you want
    2) Buying a Long block (already ready already-block, crank, pistons, heads, and sometimes an intake manifold) on craigslist-Easy to find (gotta love Chevy), however it may not run perfect and may need work itself
    3) Pull the motor yourself and take it to a machine shop- This will allow you to buy after market parts, that you want Also a good machine shop will assemble it for you for little cost (300- 600) they paint it clean it, it is practically new when they are done. Also the total cost saves you a little money (compared to a crate)- so now you have extra cash for headers, a better cam, all kinds of cool stuff.

    3) is the route I chose and I love the new motor
    74 4X4 1/2 Ton Short-bed (wrecked- rolled twice)
    84 Camaro (in progress)
    90 4X4 1/2 Ton Suburban

    When in doubt...Put it to the floor!
    If that didn't work...You need more Horses!

  9. #39
    Legend

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
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    The pull it yourself, bring it to a good machine shop(maybe with fancy pistons/cam you want) have them do machining and tricky fitting of bearings valve guides all that learning curve stuff- and reassemble it- IS A GREAT CHOICE IF YOU HAVE A GOOD MACHINE SHOP.

    The if part is the big problem. Sometimes all you have is a little word of mouth.

    Getting a Goodwrench crate motor is more expensive-BUT you know it was built with the same components(hope they don't get too many parts from China/India) by experts who assemble motors all day long. If the QC is good there is a very high probability the motor will last as long as it did the 1st time around.

    In NOLA we have this guy-around for 20 years!!- who advertises "I can replace your motor for the sales tax on a new vehicle. It is true, but he uses POS rebuilds that commonly croak in 6 months to a year. Somehow he stays in business?? Do the Chinese ship in old motors/rebuild/ship back cheap?? He sure is getting cut rate POS rebuilds-no sure where he gets them.
    1998 suburban-
    1/2 ton

    199500 miles
    River
    Ridge,LA

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