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  1. #1

    Default Clear Tape/Film for exterior paint

    Just an FYI, if anyone is considering this, and even have the remote possibility of having the money to pay someone, do that! LoL. I have worked in a few mechanic shops, body shops, restoration shops, been a detail-er, performance shops (including window tinting), and have a degree in automotive technology.

    I did the hood, fronts of both fenders, around the 4x4 stickers (They were peeling a week after I bought the truck *NEW* waxing for the first time), and two little pieces on the tailgate between the spoiler and the line-x'ed bed rails. I still have to do the bottoms of the doors, pu side, and rockers. I am not sure I am even going to do them now.. LoL. Mud flaps may be a better option.

    It isn't horribly complicated or labor intensive, it's just a PITA to work with. If anyone is curious, I paid $20 for 12 feet of 5 inch wide rolls. I purchased two. The first roll covered everything I did today, and still had some left. Maybe 3-4 feet. My best advice I can give you is to run an extention cord and hair drier prior to starting (like window tint), clean the area REALLY well with dishwashing soap and water to remove wax, clean all bugs off hood and fenders first, or they will stay under the tape obviously, and use the "wet" method. Same as decals or window tint. Fill a spray bottle with water, and add a few drops of shampoo. Wet your HANDS and fingers to prevent fingerprints, wet the area of truck, and wet the tape as you pull the backing material away so it does not stick to itself. Do not try to work out CREASES with the plastic spatula/razor blade, use the blow drier and your fingers. You will probably have to peel it back a few times so keep it wet enough to move around and do a small area at a time. The hood is by far the most PITA part, because it curves in a ) shape, making it hard to keep creases out. Also, the rubber hood bumpers under the hood make it hard to wrap it around.

    I'll do a write up if anyone is really that interested, but I would pay someone if you got the cash
    2010 Bowtie Silverado 1500 ECSB LT 5.3L AFM w/ flex fuel
    4x4 - NON Z71 - 3.08 final rear - 6spd auto - Towing pckg with tranny cooler, G80 etc
    96 Camaro RS-94 camaro t top-91 Firebird Formula-98 camaro z28-93 S10 Blazer 4.3HO 2wd-2000 Grand Prix GT-2003 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L CC LB 4x4 LT
    And some POS non GMs..

  2. #2
    Jr. Engineer sharpshooterusmc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Camp Pendleton, CA & Opelousas, LA


    i would have loved this stuff a few months ago when i pulled my bug shield off. i used to work at a tint shop and we did this stufff but it was way more expensive. so i didnt consider it. now i need to repaint my hood, i have a 01 HD with the tall front lip, and it is chipped up pretty bad and the clear coat is bubbled up in one spot
    2001 2500HD 4x4
    6.0 vortec
    spectra COI, poweraid throttle body spacer, true dual 3in straight exhaust, MSD 9.5mm wire, hypertech max energy
    lift keys and add a leafs
    18" eagle alloys wrapped in 33x13.50 baja claws
    8000k HID
    plus quite a few other mods

  3. #3


    Yea, I'm by no means regretting putting it on.. just wish I would have called some old friends and payed them to do it for me lol.

    If you can manage to get the film pretty hot without burning your hand off, its not too bad to work with. Maybe I've just been away from it all too long lol (5 years)

  4. #4
    Jr. Engineer sharpshooterusmc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Camp Pendleton, CA & Opelousas, LA


    lol it wasnt to bad cuz the tint shop i used to work at had a plotter to cut out all the pieces you wanted. we also used it to cut the film for the cars. we rarely had to handcut a car.

  5. #5


    Thanks for that info Leverlution.

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