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Thread: No 4x4 low lock

  1. #1

    Default No 4x4 low lock

    My 94 k2500 has a problem, caused by me.

    It will not lock the axle in 4low and the light does not come on. When I shift the floor lever in goes into 4 low, but does not lock.

    On mine there are two wires that come from the top part of the engine and go to the actuator and they are intact, including the connector, no problems here.

    However right in front of the actuator on the differential there is a semi-clear tube that has 3 wires in it. It appears the tubing containing the 3 wires is sealed as it goes into the differential. The other end has a white connector with three prongs in it, and it appears to be good also. Here's the problem. Coming from the top of the engine compartment there are only 2 wires and the connector has been broken off. One wire is purple and the other is green.

    How many wires are there suppose to be going to the three wire plug that goes into the differential. If it is suppose to be only 2, what is the proper way to connect them.

    Any pictures and diagram's would truly help.

  2. #2

    Default

    This may be a stupid question, but when in 4L, I am under the impression that the power to the front axle is divided equally between the front tires and that they should both turn at the same speed. Is that correct or does each each wheel spin independently of the other.

  3. #3
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    TrailLeadr's Avatar
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    Default

    The power is distributed equally.

    What you're describing is the switch. It's used for a 4x4 indicator light. It wouldn't affect if the axle actually engages.
    I can't tell you what the wiring would be, sorry.

    It sounds like your linkage could be loose if the floor lever won't stay engaged in 4L
    Last edited by TrailLeadr; 08-11-2010 at 11:53 PM.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  4. #4

    Default

    I does go into 4 wheel low, but the wheels are not turning together. I use the truck for hunting and one of the ranches has a lot of wash outs in the road. Last weekend I tried to cross a small wash out and when one tire didn't have traction the other wheel with the pressure on it, would not pull. I had to get a running start to get out. We are not talk about a big hole either, maybe 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep if that, but the way it twist and turns is bad.

    Could it be the transfer case is going into low range and the actuator is not engaging to "lock" them together.
    Last edited by SHOOTER-; 08-12-2010 at 08:09 AM.

  5. #5
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    Default

    The actuator operates a fork in the front axle. When it's engaged power is delivered to the differential. So if one tire is getting power they both should be.
    Hate to eat my words, but maybe I'm wrong about the power distribution.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  6. #6
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    Default

    Ok ill throw a little more info in here as well. Best way to tell if your 4X4 low is working properly is to put it into 4lo, and turn the wheels all the way to lock either left or right it really doesnt matter. You should feel a bind. If you do then your 4lo is working as designed. In 1994 there werent a fully Locked front diff. It is still an open diff with a limited slip style posi. Similar to your rear axle.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  7. #7

    Default

    It's working as designed then. The wheel with the least traction is the one that turns, while the other just set there.

    I thought it lock all 4 wheels together, but I guess I need a locker to do that.

    Does anyone know the wiring details to the tube coming out of the axle behind the actuator. The wires to the actuatir are intact, now if I could get the light in tha cab back to working, I'd be set.

  8. #8

    Default

    Did you check the fuse or the bulb?

  9. #9
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    Id say bulb.. Common fault on them Just unscrew the housing and it should be bulb size 194, and your good to go again.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  10. #10

    Default

    On mine there are two wires that come from the top part of the engine and go to the actuator and they are intact, including the connector, no problems here.

    However right in front of the actuator on the differential there is a semi-clear tube that has 3 wires in it. It appears the tubing containing the 3 wires is sealed as it goes into the differential. The other end has a white connector with three prongs in it, and it appears to be good also. Here's the problem. Coming from the top of the engine compartment there are only 2 wires and the connector has been broken off. One wire is purple and the other is green.

    How many wires are there suppose to be going to the three wire plug that goes into the differential. If it is suppose to be only 2, what is the proper way to connect them.

    Any pictures and diagram's would truly help.

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