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  1. #11

    Default Safety Driving Tips for Towing a Trailer

    Take time to practice before driving on main roads and never allow anyone to ride in or on the trailer. Before you leave, remember to check routes and restrictions on bridges and tunnels. Consider the following safety tips each time you drive with a trailer.
    General Handling
    • Use the driving gear that the manufacturer recommends for towing.
    • Drive at moderate speeds. This will place less strain on your tow vehicle and trailer. Trailer instability (sway) is more likely to occur as speed increases.
    • Avoid sudden stops and starts that can cause skidding, sliding, or jackknifing.
    • Avoid sudden steering maneuvers that might create sway or undue side force on the trailer.
    • Slow down when traveling over bumpy roads, railroad crossings, and ditches.
    • Make wider turns at curves and corners. Because your trailerís wheels are closer to the inside of a turn than the wheels of your tow vehicle, they are more likely to hit or ride up over curbs.
    • To control swaying caused by air pressure changes and wind buffeting when larger vehicles pass from either direction, release the accelerator pedal to slow down and keep a firm grip on the steering wheel.
    Braking
    • Allow considerably more distance for stopping.
    • If you have an electric trailer brake controller and excessive sway occurs, activate the trailer brake controller by hand. Do not attempt to control trailer sway by applying the tow vehicle brakes; this will generally make the sway worse.
    • Always anticipate the need to slow down. To reduce speed, shift to a lower gear and press the brakes lightly.
    Acceleration and Passing
    • When passing a slower vehicle or changing lanes, signal well in advance and make sure you allow extra distance to clear the vehicle before you pull back into the lane.
    • Pass on level terrain with plenty of clearance. Avoid passing on steep upgrades or downgrades.
    • If necessary, downshift for improved acceleration or speed maintenance.
    • When passing on narrow roads, be careful not to go onto a soft shoulder. This could cause your trailer to jackknife or go out of control.
    Downgrades and Upgrades
    • Downshift to assist with braking on downgrades and to add power for climbing hills.
    • On long downgrades, apply brakes at intervals to keep speed in check. Never leave brakes on for extended periods of time or they may overheat.
    • Some tow vehicles have specifically calibrated transmission tow-modes. Be sure to use the tow-mode recommended by the manufacturer.
    Backing Up
    • Put your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. To turn left, move your hand left. To turn right, move your hand right. Back up slowly. Because mirrors cannot provide all of the visibility you may need when backing up, have someone outside at the rear of the trailer to guide you, whenever possible.
    • Use slight movements of the steering wheel to adjust direction. Exaggerated movements will cause greater movement of the trailer. If you have difficulty, pull forward and realign the tow vehicle and trailer and start again.
    Parking
    • Try to avoid parking on grades. If possible, have someone outside to guide you as you park. Once stopped, but before shifting into Park, have someone place blocks on the downhill side of the trailer wheels. Apply the parking brake, shift into Park, and then remove your foot from the brake pedal. Following this parking sequence is important to make sure your vehicle does not become locked in Park because of extra load on the transmission. For manual transmissions, apply the parking brake and then turn the vehicle off in either first or reverse gear.
    • When uncoupling a trailer, place blocks at the front and rear of the trailer tires to ensure that the trailer does not roll away when the coupling is released.
    • An unbalanced load may cause the tongue to suddenly rotate upward; therefore, before un-coupling, place jack stands under the rear of the trailer to prevent injury.



    Jamie

    2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
    1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E

  2. #12

  3. #13
    Legend
    TrailLeadr's Avatar
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    Default

    I wonder if he had a pintle hook on that. Looks like his boat saved his hide.

    Can you imagine the conversation at work? So how was it out on the lake over the weekend? Uh, yeah I didn't make it out there. I had to take the truck off the road...literally.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  4. #14
    Sr. Apprentice griffon's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailLeadr View Post
    I wonder if he had a pintle hook on that. Looks like his boat saved his hide.

    Can you imagine the conversation at work? So how was it out on the lake over the weekend? Uh, yeah I didn't make it out there. I had to take the truck off the road...literally.
    Looks like a surge coupler to me. Basic bolt on crap im shocked that it held up like that.

    Do what makes you feel good. :biggrin:

    Shane from Utah

    1994 Chevy Suburban (2500/454)
    118,000 MI.

  5. #15
    Sr. Apprentice griffon's Avatar
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    American Fork, Utah
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cableguy View Post
    This guys seems to have some handy tips on colour codes...Vehicle side. He's got some good tips too.


    http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm
    One thing i did not notice on that was the cross color code. If you take a six pin off a trailer and want to add a 7 RV (has 7 flat blades not 7 round pins) there is a cross color code.
    I worked with trailers for years and saw many people try to wire color to color and it almost never works.
    It is kind of hard to explain and can varry because not all trailer makers use the same wire but ill give you the basic run down.
    On the cord from trailer to the plug the brown wire to the green post, green wire to the brown post, yellow wire to red post, white wire to white post, red wire black post, and blak wire to center.
    If that does not work for you shoot me an email and ill give you my phone number

  6. #16

    Question Brake control wiring

    2006 2500HD. My truck has what appears to be factory brake control wiring. I am installing a Tekonsha brake control. I have been told not to follow color to to color (red to red etc) . Is this correct?

  7. #17

    Default

    Hey guys, I am hoping one (or more) of you could help me out here. Could anyone tell me where to find the fuse for the auxilary feed on a 7-way connector? The problem I am having is when I am hooked up to my 5th wheel, I have power to all the lights,except no power to charge the coach battery. All the fuses I have found look good and are not blown. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
    Brian

  8. #18
    Moderator

    dwill3015's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowtiebrian View Post
    Hey guys, I am hoping one (or more) of you could help me out here. Could anyone tell me where to find the fuse for the auxilary feed on a 7-way connector? The problem I am having is when I am hooked up to my 5th wheel, I have power to all the lights,except no power to charge the coach battery. All the fuses I have found look good and are not blown. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
    Brian
    Welcome to the site. I think that would be the large bladed fuse that comes attatched to the factory brake controller pigtail and installs in the fusebox under the hood. Mine is about 1-1/2 inches wide and has a red plastic top.

    Hope this helps!
    Darcy
    Washington State
    2006 Silverado 2500HD LT3 4X4 CC SB Duramax LBZ
    Tuff Country 6" lift, 35" Toyo M/T's on 20" Ultra Peacemaker wheels, Quadzilla Stealth2 programmer, Diamond Eye 5" cat-back exhaust, factory Special order color Yellow.

  9. #19

    Default

    Actually what are you driving Brian?

  10. #20

    Default

    Hey Cableguy,
    I have a 04 3500 Silverado dually with the Duramax.

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