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  1. #1

    Default Shot in the dark.

    Some background information, about a year or so ago when I had my lift and tires put on the shop told me that the driver side upper control arm needed replacing so I bought a new OEM one (looks just like factory) and had it installed. About 8 months later I took it in to a different shop to have the headers and new exhaust put on and told the mechanic to just do a check on the front suspension to make sure everything was tight since I was hearing noises. The sound was like a quick/sharp high-pitched squeak just from the driver side when I hit certain bumps, didn't make the sound on every bump which confused me. He told me the only thing he could find was that the driver side upper control arm was loose and he tightened it. It was fine for awhile but the sound came back eventually, I bought new tires and when the tire shop was doing an alignment and balancing them I noticed the mechanic tightening a bolt which to me appeared to be the upper control arm once again. The sound went away for hundreds of miles but just recently came back about a week ago. I got my tools out last night and tightened the upper control arm bolts and took it for a drive and although it wasn't as noticeable as before, it still made the sharp high-pitched squeak over two or three bumpers. Like my title says, this is a shot in the dark to see if anyone has had this problem or could possibly diagnose it as something besides the upper control arm. Maybe tell me about a upper control arm out there that is better than the OEM ones.
    2003 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L Vortec V8
    2" Body Lift
    3" Suspension Lift
    Skyjacker Hydro 7000 Shocks
    Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer
    35" Tires with 20" American Racing Rims
    Velocity Cold Air Intake
    Billet Throttle Body Spacer
    BBK Performance Headers
    MBRP Cat-Back Exhaust System
    DiabloSport Predator- Soon to be tuned by Diablew

    "Soon to be leveling-kit"

  2. #2

    Default

    Did the shop that did the lift and told you that you needed a new upper control arm tell you what was wrong with the controlarm and did they give you the old one back?? I've never heard of replacing a upper control arm unless it was bent. Usually you replace the balljoint and/or the bushings.

  3. #3

    Default

    What they told me was that the piece ("ring") on the top side was loose and that they were able to lift it up with a screw driver very easily. But like I said the other shop said the upper control arm was loose and then the third garage seemed to tighten that part. Should I just replace everything in there; ball joints, bushings, both control arms, anything else in there (what else is in there?)? I mean it's an '03 with almost 81K miles so maybe it would be best to change it all out anyways even if those parts are working. Was looking into undercoating everything so maybe new parts would be best. I'm lost because everything looks tight so maybe I need to swap everything.
    Last edited by Metaluzc; 09-25-2010 at 09:38 PM.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Sounds to me like you need to put some poly bushings in there. at least that would take care of the chirping.. and working its way loose there should be a lock ring or nut on most of the hardware in the front end to keep things like that from happening...
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  5. #5

    Default

    I will look into new poly bushings and a new lock ring, thanks.

  6. #6

    Default

    x2 on what murdog said. A lot of front end problems can be solved by simple things like that. I had that problem on my 94 and replaced the bushing and it was good to go.

    2006 Duramax LBZ
    Edge Evo
    4'' Diamond eye to 6'' tip
    16'' ion alloy, 33'' fierce attitudes
    Lots of work left to do!

  7. #7

    Default

    Which bushings should I replace? Any recommendations on brands? The reason I ask is because this is what I found with a quick search: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EN...s/?prefilter=0

    Would that work?
    Last edited by Metaluzc; 09-26-2010 at 09:08 PM.

  8. #8

    Default

    Yeah that looks right to me! I had a local shop replace mine so i'm not sure what brand they used but those look good.

  9. #9

    Default

    Yeah, I read a quick how-to and from the directions I will be taking mine to a shop also. They talk about melting out the old bushings and I don't have a blow torch or heating gun. What about this packaged deal, wondering if it's worth the price: http://www.jdmhub.com/index.php?rout...86_30898_31430
    Last edited by Metaluzc; 09-27-2010 at 09:47 AM.

  10. #10

    Default

    I put a kit like that on my '96 Burb and I won't put one on my other trucks. You feel EVERY bump in the road. The replacement body mounts are very stiff. I would replace just the control arm and swaybar bushings. They don't transmit to much harshness into the cab.

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