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  1. #1

    Default 2007 Suburban Instrument Panel Goes Out / Electical Problem

    I been having an intermiting problem with my 07 Suburban where the instrument panel will go completely out then it will come back on like when you start the car.

    Sometimes it may just be the red airbag light comes on then goes out.

    Sometimes the StabiliTrak Indicator light will come on then go off, uncommanded, and the switch will not work.

    Sometimes the Park assist switch will not allow me to turn it on it's in a locked off mode sorta speak. when I press the switch it just blinks and goes back to being illuminated on the switch (lower center console)
    And Finally the other day I went to stow the side mirrors and the car froze up. when I hit the switch they didn't move then I tryed to start the car and all dead except the headlights worked and the only power inside was the light on the heater control panel. After some time she started then stalled dead again, etc. Finally started and when I was driving the intrument panel went all blank then restarted etc.

    Any idea?

  2. #2
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    ***thread moved here******
    any questions about the move please feel free to PM me.
    Mike

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  3. #3
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    Hi Tom,
    Whenever this many things are affected it is usually a bad ground somewhere. The ground is usually the only thing that can affect all of them because they usually have their own power sources, and this many power sources don't all go bad at the same time, (unless this is a positive battery cable issue)

    As far as where to check for grounds:
    1. Start at the battery. Yes, it could be that easy. Make sure both connections are clean & tight. Don't just look at them. Take them off & clean them if they look the least bit suspicious.
    2. Check the chassis ground. It will either be piggybacked (a continuation of the battery cable) from the negative battery (ground) cable, or it could be a separate ground cable running from chassis to engine. It depends on whether your ground runs from battery negative to engine, or battery negative to chassis first. Either way all three (battery negative, chassis & engine all have to be connected to each other) Make sure they are clean and tight here too! Put a wrench on them and check.
    3. Check the engine to chassis ground wires (usually 2 of these) run from engine to firewall (these are usually up high near the rear of the valve covers). You may also have chassis to firewall/body grounds. Look down low near the bottom of the firewall on both sides near the frame rails as this is where I've seen them attached to the frame.
    4. This one is the most difficult because of poor access and that is why you do it last, even though it could be the most likely culprit. Instrument cluster/dash/guages/interior grounds. You are on your own here as I'm not familiar with interior on anything as new as your Sub. but best advice before you start this part is go to the library and photo copy the wireing diagram out of their repair manual for your vehicle (exact year & model) They are fairly easy to read (not rocket science and not magic like everybody thinks) Find the interior portion/dash of the diagram and look for the ground wires. It will tell you where they are and also where they are connected. You will see that all these consumers that are intermittantly failing are all interconnected through the grounds. This diagram will save you a lot of time because you won't be taking things apart that you don't need to be removing. There may be a half dozen or more of these but they should be located within close proximity of each other. I have seen as many as six of these all connected to a multi-lug connector and the connector is screwed to the sheetmetal with a screw and usually it is as simple as the screw has come loose, or they mounted it where there was a lot of paint and the paint keeps the lug from making a good ground to the metal. Hope this helps.

  4. #4

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    Thanks I'll try these step by step

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