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  1. #11
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    Coventry, Rhode Island
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93BURB View Post
    I like it!!

    I have a guy that does stuff for me pretty cheap...quoted me at three hours labor which isn't bad...I'd pay $175 to not have to deal with it!
    At that price it's worth it to send it out. Let him deal with that headache.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  2. #12
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    May 2007
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    Lenexa, KS
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    I just might do that...but I really enjoy working on my own vehicles. Really looks like it's going to be a b*tch though...I think I can farm out this one.
    1993 Chevrolet Suburban
    K2500 4X4 w/ 7.4 L 454

  3. #13
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    I actually had a leak on mine, and I put it off forever because I'm too cheap to send it out, and too lazy to go through that much work just for a gasket...lol Besides it was a minor leak. more like an ooze, than a leak.

    Thankfully since I rebuilt the engine, the gasket was easier to replace.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  4. #14

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    Along with roller rockers and a new pan gasket heres a list of items I recommend for recon on high mileage vehicles:

    Use an intake/injector cleaner to clean the top end and injectors (I'm partial to Seafoam, but whatever works to acomplish the job).
    Use a good oil additive/cleaner for a few miles, then change the oil.
    Pressure flush the cooling system, add Water wetter, and clean the puke tank out.
    Clean the MAS with CRC electronic contact cleaner (or similar product).
    Change the airfilter and wipe out the throttlebody, intake plumbing, and airbox (use an old toothbrush to get inside the TB).
    Do a tune-up. Plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and Check the timeing.
    Pressure flush the transmission (Probably have to be done at a shop).
    Change both diff fluids.
    Change transfer case fluid.
    Flush the power steering pump and system.
    Lube every fitting you can find on the chassis.

    Dont: use synthetic oil when you change the fluids, they'll possibly cause leaks on high mileage vehicles.

    I've been using this recon list for years on resale vehicles I turn, its from a dealer that only sells cars they can offer warranty on so its pretty in depth. I've never had problems come back on me and some of the maintenance items give a good indicator of the vehicle condition.

  5. #15
    Sr. Apprentice
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    May 2007
    Location
    Lenexa, KS
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbplus10 View Post
    Along with roller rockers and a new pan gasket heres a list of items I recommend for recon on high mileage vehicles:

    Use an intake/injector cleaner to clean the top end and injectors (I'm partial to Seafoam, but whatever works to acomplish the job).
    Use a good oil additive/cleaner for a few miles, then change the oil.
    Pressure flush the cooling system, add Water wetter, and clean the puke tank out.
    Clean the MAS with CRC electronic contact cleaner (or similar product).
    Change the airfilter and wipe out the throttlebody, intake plumbing, and airbox (use an old toothbrush to get inside the TB).
    Do a tune-up. Plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and Check the timeing.
    Pressure flush the transmission (Probably have to be done at a shop).
    Change both diff fluids.
    Change transfer case fluid.
    Flush the power steering pump and system.
    Lube every fitting you can find on the chassis.

    Dont: use synthetic oil when you change the fluids, they'll possibly cause leaks on high mileage vehicles.

    I've been using this recon list for years on resale vehicles I turn, its from a dealer that only sells cars they can offer warranty on so its pretty in depth. I've never had problems come back on me and some of the maintenance items give a good indicator of the vehicle condition.

    Great information Tim, thank you!!
    1993 Chevrolet Suburban
    K2500 4X4 w/ 7.4 L 454

  6. #16
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    Oct 2008
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    Peoples Republic of Kalifornia
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    I had a similar "tired blood" problem with my 1993 Tonawanda 454, but mine started when I bought it new in 1993. After numerous trips to the "stealership", I was told repeatedly (1) We never heard of that before; (2) Unable to duplicate customer complaint; and (3) Vehicle is within specs..

    After relating these woes to a friend, he suggested that I have it dyno tested. I explained this problem to the dyno techs, and they told me that what I described was not possible (acceleration to 50 mph, then a leveling off of power). I told them to test it anyway. When I returned, they showed me the readout, and apologized, as the readings were exactly what I described.

    Turns out the distributor was defective from the factory. It was not all of the time that I wasted with the dealer, GM, etc, or the fact that I had to pay for the testing and repair for Chevy's mistake out of my own pocket, that ticked me off. Rather it was the fact that I did not learn the cause of the problem until 92,000 miles. Old Blue just turned over 160,000, is still going strong, and running better than when it was new.

    I strongly suggest a dyno test before embarking on expensive repairs. It was the best money that I ever spent.
    Last edited by Sawfish; 05-27-2010 at 08:25 AM.
    1993 K-2500 Suburban Silverado, 7.4L, 4 X 4, HD Towing
    1985 Jeep Scrambler 4.2 L, 4 X 4, Laredo
    2005 Dodge Dakota, 4.7L, 4 x 4,, TRX4, SLT

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