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  1. #1
    Jr. Apprentice ohiomossyoak's Avatar
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    Default Fuel additives? enlighten me please

    Just lookin into fuel additives.I have used Lucas prior an cheapo stuff..Guy was telling me b12 chemtool was gettin good reviews...My suburban sat for 10 months an just tryin to get it up to par.
    what do yall think
    Father,Husband,Bowhunter
    95 K1500 Suburban---5.7=350ci


  2. #2
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    run a can of Seafoam! and then do the intake treatment as well.. That really will help the most. There are a bunch of threads on the site that talk about seafoam and its benefits!
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  3. #3

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    x2 on the SEAFOAM when added to the fuel tank, and cleaning the throttle body & intake... their entire line of products has never caused me any problems (with seals, gaskets, o-rings. etc.).

  4. #4
    Jr. Engineer
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    x3 on the Seafoam! Put a full can in your gas tank - you'll be glad you did!
    SEAFOAM, I PUT THAT @#!$ IN EVERYTHING!



    2004 Silverado LS 5.3L Z71 Crew Cab
    260,000+ km

  5. #5

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    Are automobile manufacturers advocating the use of fuel and engine additives for their products? There is a wise old adage. "If it ain't broke don't fix it". I realize people have an innate compulsion to tinker with and screw around with things and have always been tempted by magical elixirs. Octane boosters, oil additives, fuel additives etc....Me, I don't spend my $$$ on fuel or engine additives or the myriad of products and snake oils out there that claim to do this or that unless the manufacturer recommends a products use. If there were additives that worked wonders I am sure every engine manufacturer would recommend them. But to each his own.
    Last edited by 1flyfisher; 12-10-2010 at 11:54 AM.
    2010 GMC Savana AWD
    Silver Metallic, 5.3L, 3.73 Gears and G80 Heavy Duty Locking Rear Differential, American Racing Off Road Series ATX Chrome Assaults 17X8, BFG T/A KO's 245/70/17 (Stock Size).
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  6. #6
    Legend Bigbomber's Avatar
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    Seafoam........
    [/SIGPIC]2009 Chevy Silverado LT 1500 EXT CAB 4X4 Vortec 4.8L SFI,K&N air filter,Weathertech Floor Liners ,Weathertech Stone/Bug Deflector, Line X Spray On Bedliner, TruXport Rollup Tonneau Cover, Molded Mudguards, Viper 5701 LE 2 way Security Alarm/Remote Starter, Xm Satelite Radio,BILSTEIN 5100 rear shocks,BILSTEIN 5100 front levelling shocks,READYLIFT 2" rear lift blocks,Goodyear Wrangler Territorys -265/70R 17"

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1flyfisher View Post
    Are automobile manufacturers advocating the use of fuel and engine additives for their products? There is a wise old adage. "If it ain't broke don't fix it". I realize people have an innate compulsion to tinker with and screw around with things and have always been tempted by magical elixirs. Octane boosters, oil additives, fuel additives etc....Me, I don't spend my $$$ on fuel or engine additives or the myriad of products and snake oils out there that claim to do this or that unless the manufacturer recommends a products use. If there were additives that worked wonders I am sure every engine manufacturer would recommend them. But to each his own.
    The FIRST place I ever saw Seafoam for sale was at a GM stealership...It was THE recommended top end cleaner they sold in the 80's...
    Still Loyal to GM after all these years...:shocked:
    2006 Impala LT 3.5L
    2005 Silverado WT small cab/longbed 4x4 4.3L V6
    1999 Grand Am 3.4L in TX w/ our youngest
    1993 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4 door 4x4 'Ole Rusty' - 'SOLD'
    1988 S-10 small cab/longbed HT3.4L Crate Engine
    1970 Nova 250 I-6, factory 3 sp floor shifter.
    1968 Chevelle 'Nomad' Wagon 250 I-6 w/ 3 on da' tree.

  8. #8

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    One good thing about the the better additives ( Seafoam ) is that it will remove any water that has formed in your gas tank from condensation. Since your trucks been sitting for 10 months I would add Seafoam to the gas tank, take off the throttlebody and clean both sides with a spray throttlebody cleaner like CRC or Seafoam t/body cleaner and a old soft toothbrush, as I've said before on this site DON'T use carb cleaner. I would also use the Seafoam spray to clean inside the intake maniflod. If you go to Seafoam.com its shows how to use there products.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradotrailblazer View Post
    One good thing about the the better additives ( Seafoam ) is that it will remove any water that has formed in your gas tank from condensation. Since your trucks been sitting for 10 months I would add Seafoam to the gas tank, take off the throttlebody and clean both sides with a spray throttlebody cleaner like CRC or Seafoam t/body cleaner and a old soft toothbrush, as I've said before on this site DON'T use carb cleaner. I would also use the Seafoam spray to clean inside the intake maniflod. If you go to Seafoam.com its shows how to use there products.
    X2! that way you know things are clean, and here in MN water in the fuel system will keep you from going anywhere

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1flyfisher View Post
    Are automobile manufacturers advocating the use of fuel and engine additives for their products? There is a wise old adage. "If it ain't broke don't fix it". I realize people have an innate compulsion to tinker with and screw around with things and have always been tempted by magical elixirs. Octane boosters, oil additives, fuel additives etc....Me, I don't spend my $$$ on fuel or engine additives or the myriad of products and snake oils out there that claim to do this or that unless the manufacturer recommends a products use. If there were additives that worked wonders I am sure every engine manufacturer would recommend them. But to each his own.
    I think that I understand from whence you are coming. But there are times when additives are necessary (and/or useful). One example, just mentioned here, is "water in the fuel".

    Ethanol (matters not whether it's 10% or 85%) contains alcohol... and alcohol attracts moisture... which can eventually lead to "product separation". It is that moisture/water which can corrode/damage metal parts. So using SEAFOAM, not only as a "cleaner" but also to mitigate "water in the fuel" makes sense. Some experts say that fuel (ethanol especially) can degrade within a matter of 90 days.

    There's also the problem of moisture in the OIL... each time there's a TEMP change/difference between the AIR and interior engine... condensation forms. Typically, it gets burned off / evaporates when the engine heats up... but many "short trips" (with cooling in between them) can degrade engine lubrication... so a little SEAFOAM is useful there as well (depending on one's driving habits).

    Then too, there's the matter of buying a USED vehicle. For example; I bought my '04 Silverado and also my wife's '00 Buick Century "used". Her Century exhibited "noisy lifters"... when started, until the engine completely warmed-up. I attributed such behavior to "sticky" lifters. So, I changed the OIL and added SEAFOAM... within 500 miles of driving, there was no longer any "noise" from the lifters (even in the dead cold of winter).

    Also there are additives for the coolant system. GM dealers even use "stop leak pellets" (made by BARS, IIRC)... to address minor seepage issues.

    But, back to your point:

    I would not go about experimenting with "additives" just for the hell of it... I always try to determine if there's a need for same.

    ...the above is just my 2cents, YMMV

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