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  1. #1

    Default Replacing the fuel pump

    Now that I've got my bassackwards priorities dealt with (bought speakers and amp with last paycheck..) I'm going to buy a new fuel pump this tuesday and plan on putting it in over the coming weekend. Until today the only way I knew of replacing the pump was to drop the tank. I was talking with a guy at chevron today and he told me to unbolt the bed an pick it up with a prybar to get to the tank easier. I am skeptical. What you all recommend?
    2000 Silverado ext cab1500 Z71
    Have:
    -K&N
    -SPR-17S Fronts with 100RMS watts to each
    -Billet Grill
    -Bedliner
    -Catback Flowmaster Exhaust
    -CDA-9884 Head unit w/ iPod hookup
    -2 KFC-W3011 subs (seperate boxes 1 cu ft air space each) powered by a KAC-9104D 900 watt RMS monoblock amp
    -SPR-57C rear speakers
    -Door dings
    -Leveling kit (2.5" torsion keys)

    Want:
    -6" Suspension Lift
    -35" tires (maybe 38s)
    -HID/projector headlights
    -Headers
    -Programmer/Tuner

  2. #2
    Jr. Mechanic GOTSAND4ME2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ukiah, California
    Posts
    79

    Default

    Hi there

    I have the same exact problem with my 2000 silvy

    My buddy and I actually replaced his pump on his 2001. Not too hard, taking the bed off would prob make it easier but we did it from under the truck. Just put a floor jack under the tank and took all the straps loose, just be careful to not let the tank down too much you might break the connectors to the tank.
    Brian
    Nor-Cal

    2000 Chevy Silverado 1500
    6" RCD Lift
    315/75/R16 BFG All Terrains
    Alpine 7" DVD Reciever
    Jbl Componet Door Speakers Front and Rear
    4 10" Jbl Subs
    Led (Blue) Cluster Gauge Blulb Swap
    Dell Studio Hybrid Digital Media Server
    Cobra CB
    Twin Bearcat Scanners










  3. #3

    Default

    i have done it both ways and moving the bed is by far easier if you have help. Remove the 8 bolts for the bed, disconnect the rear taillight harness and remove the 3 screws inside the fuel door area for the filler pipe. Lift the bed and move it back about 2 feet so that you can rest it on the tire and bumper to gain access to the top of the tank. R&r the pump and put the bed back.
    Gary

    99 K 1500 Suburban
    78 Silverado Big 10 w/factory 454
    00 S-10 Blazer
    1976 Trans Am
    1980 Honda CB900 Custom

  4. #4

    Default

    they say it's about 5 well fed guys job. moving truck bed. many say, it is the fastest way to do, though.
    DON'T FIX IT IF IT AIN'T BROK. IF IT'S BROK - FIX RIGHT AWAY.
    WONNA THINGS DONE RIGHT, DO THEM YOURSELF

    2000 SILVERADO, CENTURION EDITION, 4WD, Z71, 5.3 VORTEC
    NO DUMM MODS

  5. #5

    Default

    I've done it with one helper, but prefer 3 (and i'm not a big guy).

  6. #6
    Sr. Apprentice tommyboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hickory, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    43

    Default

    I have a 98 took the tank out in about an hour from underneath be careful with the fuel injection lines, there expensive. Now if I could just get the fuel filler neck hose to stop leaking!!! Any ideas? I ordered a new filler neck hose.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
    they say it's about 5 well fed guys job. moving truck bed. many say, it is the fastest way to do, though.
    If you have a cherry picker engine hoist and a couple of tow straps it becomes a one man operation!
    Jim

    2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
    Pro Comp Leveling Kit
    285-75-16 Cooper ST All Terrains
    Pro Comp Programmer
    Bilstein Shocks
    Linux Bed Liner
    Tinted Windows



    Other rides:

    1967 Landcruiser <350 Chevy>
    1970 Camaro
    1990 Geo Metro Convertible
    2007 FJ Cruiser

  8. #8

    Default

    Just to follow up I ended up dropping the tank and it was purdy easy. Draining it actually took the most time, I felt like I had to learn how to siphone all over again, probably drank more gas than I drained... Anyhow like someone said before just put a floor jack under the tank with a board on the jack to distribute the weight a little bit, 3 bolts to unscrew on the filler neck (8 or 9 mm) then two bolts holding the tank in, once you get those out pull on the straps and unclip the other side. I actually let the tank all the way down to the ground and didn't break any lines. Unclip the three lines going to the unit, remember where they go. There's a metal ring holding the unit in, put a screwdriver in one of the notches and bang it with a hammer (channel locks work but not recommended) pull the old unit out and grab the seal off of it along with some clips that may have stuck on where the lines attach. Place these on the new unit and drop it in, there's a groove to make sure you get it lined up right. Reverse the process..

    Fixed my starting problem and fuel gauge problem! Woo killed two birds with one stone! Now the only message left on the dash is low washer fluid.. time to buy a new tank.

  9. #9

    Default

    Great Job how much did the fuel pump cost?? My truck is an 03 just wandering incase mine decides to go any time soon..
    2003 Silverado Z71 Ext Cab 100K

  10. #10

    Default

    Go to acdelco's website and find the model number for your truck then type it into google and you should get a list of online retailers. I went through amazon because they're a known retailer I trust and they were the cheapest at $235

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