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12-16-2010, 05:55 PM #1
Replacing fuel pump on 1993 GMC Suburban, 5.7L, 350 tbi.
Pre-steps: Disconnect battery; empty gas tank (tank feels as light as plastic, but holds 42 gallons); relieve pressure; and raise rear end of truck up on jack stands.
Step 1: If rusty, spray heat shield and clamp bolts with PB Blaster.
Step 2: Place floor jack with small piece of pressed board bolted to it under tank and raise until just under heat shield.
Step 3: Remove heat shield bolts and heat shield.
Step 4: Disconnect fuel filler and vent line hoses.
Step 5: Disconnect pump electrical connection & ground located on top of frame, accessible through the inside rear driver wheel well.
Step 6: Place floor jack under tank again and raise until just under tank.
Step 7: Remove tank clamp bolts. The clamps are hinged so once the bolts at the rear of the truck are removed, the clamps come off.
Step 8: Lower tank carefully until you can see top of tank and sending unit. In my situation, the tank was stuck with crud and frozen moisture and had to use a pry bar to loosen tank to lower it.
Step 9: Disconnect fuel lines and vent hose.
Step 10: Lower tank to the ground. Note: it was tricky getting fuel filler & vent hoses up and over frame while lowering tank.
Step 11: If rusty or cruddy, spray sending unit with PB and clean.
Step 12: Open locking ring and CAREFULLY remove pump so as to not break plastic clip holding floater arm (like I did). In my case, I used a little JB Weld and a stainless steel zip tie to re-secure arm.
Step 13: Switch out pump and strainer per package instructions.
Step 14: Re-install using same steps in reverse.
Last edited by backcountry horsewoman; 12-16-2010 at 09:14 PM.~Janet~My rig: 1993 Suburban K2500 & 16ft stock trailer.
12-16-2010, 08:39 PM #2
That's a good write up Janet. Thanks for posting it. You did a really good job cleaning up your tank too.1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol
12-23-2010, 03:06 AM #3
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Central Oregon Coast Range
I cut a 12" x 12" hole with an air chisel in the bed of the truck over the gas tank so I could access the pump without dropping the tank. Built a hinged panel for it with a seal that I could bolt closed. No sparks involved.
1992 K1500 Burb
12-23-2010, 03:12 AM #4
Welcome to the GM truck club AW.
We suggested that to her & showed her the instructional threads here, but she wanted to drop the tank for the experience. Personally, I would have done it your way. Less work, less grief, nice, neat, & easy.
12-23-2010, 08:52 AM #5
This is true. After researching both cutting access panel and dropping tank, I felt the best way (for me) was to drop the tank. I was leery to cut the panel into my burb as I was unsure of integrity of frame after as well as proper long-term sealing of panel. Since I use it to tow my horses, I was not willing to risk it.
Dropping the tank was time consuming... but turned out to be a simple enough project. My truck is running great now, and is still in original condition.
If my tank was situated in such a way that would require a lot of manipulation to (for instance) get it past drive shaft, I may have re-thought it. But since the 1993 Burb's tank is placed at the very rear/center of truck, it was quite easy to drop. I'm very glad I did it this way.
Stephan is right... it was an awesome & fun learning experience too! :D
12-23-2010, 03:02 PM #6
LOL Janet, the main reason you were sucessful & enjoyed the tank R&I & pump install is cuz you're a woman. 9 out of 10 men who did this for the first time, would have been cussing, throwing tools, swearing at God, throwing more tools, & calling their doctors for some valium.
08-26-2013, 10:40 PM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
My 1993 sub. fuel pump has failed so really whats the best way to do this ? Where should I get the replacement pump?
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