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  1. #11
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    stephan's Avatar
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    I don't want to throw fuel on the fire, or ruin the love affair you have with this dealer, but isn't the engine part of the "power train"? Why aren't your broken exhaust manifold bolts covered under the pt warranty? They aren't a normal wear item (like fluids, clutches, filters etc that wouldn't normally be covered) Warranty covers "breakage" These bolts are broken aren't they? I would read your pt warranty & see if for some reason they are excluded due to being part of the exhaust system, & if they're not excluded I'd go talk to the service manager again.

    **re your ques above: You can run cats with headers
    1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
    350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
    L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
    Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
    Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
    3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
    No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol


  2. #12
    Jr. Mechanic
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    Im gonna call the dealership i bought the truck from soon. I didnt buy the truck from the big dealership i went to a small town dealer that specializes in trucks. The service guy at the big dealership said he called the warranty company wouldnt cover any of that stuff. bunch of BS.
    2003 K1500HD-Straight Pipe, Drop -In K&N Filter, 3" Lift Soon, H2 Rims
    1993 C1500 ECSB- Open Headers, Performance Shift Kit

  3. #13
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    YEs big time BS.. ive been thru the same with my 02 Z71 when i had it. And yes as stephan said you can run cats and all the 02 sensors with long tubes the problem is finding a company that makes them,
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  4. #14
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    Sounds good. What would that do to the tone of my exhaust? and any suggestions on companies?

  5. #15

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    I don't think $1000 is outrageous for the broken exhaust manifold bolts, and I'll tell you why. Usually, a few more bolts will break when removing the stock manifolds. There's no way to avoid this. Chevy used cheap bolts that were not durable enough to withstand the extreme heat and abuse from the exhaust. If a bolt breaks off flush to the head or too close to get a vice onto, the head must be removed and sent to a machine shop. The broken bolts will have to be removed or drilled out (by whatever means they prefer to remove them), and new threads will have to be tapped if the bolt(s) had to be completely drilled out. This is a very time consuming and precise job, and you pay for that. You're paying for: the dealer or mechanic's removal of the manifold(s) and heads, the trip to the machine shop and all of the labor at the machine shop, the trip back to the shop, a new headgasket and reinstallation of the heads, and, finally, the reinstallation of the manifolds with new studs or bolts. None of these steps are trivial, and this can get very costly depending on what snags they encounter along the way.

  6. #16

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    have they really gotten that bad on the quality of their bolts? I mean i just pulled the manifolds off my van, which have probably been on it for 15 years through all sorts of weather, and while they were rusted to hell I still was able to get them off without breaking any (yes you do have to be careful and work them a little sometimes, but it's definitely doable).

    I still don't like it when they quote things that way, and just say it's gonna be X amount without any explanation of what it's going to involve.


    @OP, is your Warranty through an external company, or is it through GM? Because as Stephan said, if it's a GM powertrain warranty I'd think that should be covered
    1986 Chevy G20 Tow Rig - 5.7 TBI conversion
    1978 Mustang II King Cobra Road Racer - Holley 650, MSD 6AL, 5 speed, 10 point Roll Cage, 9" posi, fuel cell, custom interior.

  7. #17
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    KyleZ71's Avatar
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    Im sorry 1000 bucks for broken manifold bolts is bs. I had 5 broken, no leak, and and had three estimates. 900, 700, and 270. And this is including installing my shorties. The guy who said 270, looked at it and said no problem. He was done in an hour n a half. His shop is part time welding so he knew what he was doing. Look around so you don't get shafted.
    Objects in mirror are losing

    2003 Chevy Silverado Z71, 5.3L, K&N 57 series, 2.5'' Flowmaster Super 10 series dual exhaust , Corvette Servo, McNew Automotive Dyno tune, SS gauge cluster, Extang Trifecta Tonneau, Pacesetter shorty headers, Goodmark cowl hood, Sony Xplod speakers, Kenwood DDX-470 exhaust tips, 16" Ultra Badlands polished wheels, Pirelli Scorpion ATR .

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by dualdj1 View Post
    have they really gotten that bad on the quality of their bolts? I mean i just pulled the manifolds off my van, which have probably been on it for 15 years through all sorts of weather, and while they were rusted to hell I still was able to get them off without breaking any (yes you do have to be careful and work them a little sometimes, but it's definitely doable).
    Yes, it looks like it's just NBS 5.3's that have the problem, but I could be wrong. See this thread (there is a video linked in that post).

    ---------- Post added at 08:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by KyleZ71 View Post
    Im sorry 1000 bucks for broken manifold bolts is bs. I had 5 broken, no leak, and and had three estimates. 900, 700, and 270. And this is including installing my shorties. The guy who said 270, looked at it and said no problem. He was done in an hour n a half. His shop is part time welding so he knew what he was doing. Look around so you don't get shafted.
    Kyle, your bolts probably didn't break off flush with the head; thus, the mechanic did not need to remove the heads and have the bolts drilled out and have new threads tapped at a machine shop. Your mechanic probably welded new heads on the exposed part of the bolt and cranked them right out. Unfortunately, the bolts broke flush to the head when I had this problem, so I had to have a machinist work on my heads.

  9. #19

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    hmmm now I see what the deal is. It would be hard to do, and it *may* not work, but I have heard of a solution from some experts before if you don't want to risk breaking the bolts.

    On very rusty/stuck bolts, you can melt candle wax along the bolt, and it will help work the bolt loose. This is a trick nascar guys have used for years (or so I was told). It was demonstrated on a bolt that was so stuck the head broke off. The guy then heated it with a torch and melted wax in around the bolt/threads and let it sit for a few. Got a vice grips on the bolt and worked it right out.

    I have yet to try it myself, so I don't know if there are any additional tricks to make it work the best, but It's handy to know at any rate. With the way those manifolds sit and are bolted up, you may be able to get get the engine good and hot and melt some wax in around the block/manifold joint to help get them out. Might work, might not. at any rate if you can get the manifold out of there and have a broken nub left, you should be able to get the nub out that way without pulling the head, supposing it's not broke off flush. Even then there are some easy out type tools that still might be able to remove the broken piece, without the need to pull the head.


    Do these trucks have aluminum heads? Are there some different bolts to use when replacing that do not rust/corrode?

  10. #20
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    The wax is an interesting idea. Does it work better than wd-40 or some of the other rust dissolvers/inhibitors? I think all manuf. could do owners & mechanics a service by using antiseize on ALL studs/bolts whether they're in aluminum or cast iron.

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