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  1. #11

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    Scott, yes. On my burb, the dash and tail are also the same fuse.

    Murdog, I am really afraid it may be the switch. It looks to be an expensive part. But from some quick reading, it is a super common problem for his year/model dodge. Am told it may be a different 40 amp taillight fuse in his panel under hood. Let's hope it is that fuse, and not his switch.
    ~Janet~
    My rig: 1993 Suburban K2500 & 16ft stock trailer.

  2. #12
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    Interesting i didnt think the fuse under the hood controls that parts but then again... I have a buddy with a 2000 Ram... have had similar issues with it
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  3. #13

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    Murdog, don't know if your friend's set up is like my roommate's... but he has a set of baby sized fuses right inside his driver's door... and another set under hood. Just went and checked his fuse. Yup, there are 20amp fuses for fog lights and such, 40amp for taillight... and other important fuses/relays there too. Tested the 2nd taillight fuse. It's good too.

    Faulty switch or bad wiring?
    ~Janet~
    My rig: 1993 Suburban K2500 & 16ft stock trailer.

  4. #14
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    Id lean twards a switch,.. Junk yard or Craigslist time.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  5. #15
    Sr. Engineer
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    Indianapolis, In
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    The guys at this cummins forum are very helpful, give them a shot at it, they breathe Dodge. http://www.cumminsforum.com/
    2000 GMC YUKON SLT, 5.3L tow pkg, G80 rear/w 3.73 gear

  6. #16

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    Have removed portion of dash to gain access to switch. I have visually inspected the switch and it looks good. The two connectors are solidly plugged in, no burnt or corroded wires. I don't want to unplug the connectors as it appears to be a little tricky. Any easy way to test the switch?
    ~Janet~
    My rig: 1993 Suburban K2500 & 16ft stock trailer.

  7. #17

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    Just curious, the bulb is still good? Is it corroded from the minerals in the water?

    EDIT: Didn't read that it was dash and tail lights, first thought is the switch. (What lights still work?)

    Steve
    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
    02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

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  8. #18

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    Lights that work: headlights, hi beams, interior lights, the passenger side brake light, and fog lights (although one bulb is burnt out there).

    He says last night when unlocked truck, everything, including dash lights, came on. But when he turned on his headlight switch, the dash and tail lights went out.
    ~Janet~
    My rig: 1993 Suburban K2500 & 16ft stock trailer.

  9. #19

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    SWITCH !!!!!! 100% ...overload and shot !!!!

    1996 Suburban K3500 SLT DUALLY
    1988 Camaro RS 383 stroker LT1
    1992 32' Aero-tek Race Boat, 600 CI BBC
    WE CAN STICK A DIESEL IN ANYTHING
    SPECIALIZED IN CUSTOM CONVERSIONS OF ANY KIND
    Scott:glasses:

  10. #20

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    Really Scott? You sure??? If it's all the same, I'd like to double check your diagnosis with my ohmmeter... if only I could figure out how to remove the connectors from the switch to do the test!!
    ~Janet~
    My rig: 1993 Suburban K2500 & 16ft stock trailer.

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