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  1. #11

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    Wowa....The battery died on my when I bought it. Imagine that!!!!! Dirt Bag seller!!!! It has a security system that sucks the life outta the battery and it went dead at least once. I bet the new battery and the battery going flat from not being driven may be the reason for bad dash gauge. I'll try disconnecting the battery again and get back to ya.
    By the way..nice ride. Are there any upgraded transfer cases available for the Yukons etc? I think mine is whining like my Ex Wife!!!!! I get a sound outta the car at 20MPH and it goes away when i put it in neutral.
    Thanks

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by 38pont View Post
    Wowa....The battery died on my when I bought it. Imagine that!!!!! Dirt Bag seller!!!! It has a security system that sucks the life outta the battery and it went dead at least once. I bet the new battery and the battery going flat from not being driven may be the reason for bad dash gauge. I'll try disconnecting the battery again and get back to ya.
    By the way..nice ride. Are there any upgraded transfer cases available for the Yukons etc? I think mine is whining like my Ex Wife!!!!! I get a sound outta the car at 20MPH and it goes away when i put it in neutral.
    Thanks
    I don't know of any upgraded t-cases. There is a kit that is installed when they rebuild them that fixes the pump rub issue. It stops the pump from rubbing the pin hole in the t-case. There is also a clamp that can be installed in place of a C-clip that is known to pop off. Your sound could be anything from a bad u-joint to a bad pinion bearing in the rear diff. I would just make sure that the fluid is at a good level. I had a whining sound in my 03 when my foot was on the gas. It stopped when I let off the gas or put it in neutral. It turned out to be a bad pinion bearing. As far as the gauge thing goes, I installed an upgraded wire harness for my headlights yesterday and disconnected the battery. When I reconnected it my temp gauge acted normal then dropped to zero. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. it is fine now.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #13

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    Yo Heartbeat... Would I have to leave the main harness attached to the cluster in order for the odometer to maintain it's memory/reading? The dealer told me that the cluster could be sent out to be repaired and then it would need reprogrammed. Perhaps that's because that the rebuilder would send back any cluster on the shelf and not necessarily mine. That's what makes me wonder about removing the cluster wiring to repair it on the bench and reinstalling it and reapplying current to the cluster. I wonder if the factory manual spells out the procedure?
    Thanks
    Dave

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by 38pont View Post
    Yo Heartbeat... Would I have to leave the main harness attached to the cluster in order for the odometer to maintain it's memory/reading? The dealer told me that the cluster could be sent out to be repaired and then it would need reprogrammed. Perhaps that's because that the rebuilder would send back any cluster on the shelf and not necessarily mine. That's what makes me wonder about removing the cluster wiring to repair it on the bench and reinstalling it and reapplying current to the cluster. I wonder if the factory manual spells out the procedure?
    Thanks
    Dave
    No, just take it out. You can send it to a re builder in Texas and they will completely rebuild it (all gauges, bulbs, power supply if needed) for around $125. Dealers usually just swap them out. Look in your area for a speedo shop. We have a few in mine that do it for around $25 per motor

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  5. Thanks 99'HEARTBEAT thanked for this post
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  6. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    No, just take it out. You can send it to a re builder in Texas and they will completely rebuild it (all gauges, bulbs, power supply if needed) for around $125. Dealers usually just swap them out. Look in your area for a speedo shop. We have a few in mine that do it for around $25 per motor

    x2...on what
    Pikey has Mentioned above, and I would add, that Mileage is Stored in the Dash Cluster, So if you remove"Unplug"the Main Wiring Harness on your Dash Cluster, the Current Mileage will Remain the Same and as Pikey mentioned, if you have a Local Shop, that can do the repairs to"all gauges, bulbs"on your Dash Cluster.....then all you would do, is Plug the Main Wiring Harness back into your Dash Cluster, and your Good to Go.....

    Edit....Regarding" The dealer told me that the cluster could be sent out to be repaired and then it would need reprogrammed"....this would need to be Done, if the Dealer was going to install a Different Dash Cluster.
    Last edited by 99'HEARTBEAT; 10-14-2013 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Added Infor.

    MIKE


    99"SILVERADO
    5.3 l 3.73 l G80
    BLACK BEAR CUSTOM TUNE
    SNUGTOP l COLORMATCH l KATZKIN










  7. #16

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    Well, I got the gauge stepper motors today. Has anyone changed these stepper motors out? The instructions say to turn the gauge needle until it breaks free from the shaft.. That's a scary thought. I fix stuff, I don't break em.

  8. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by 38pont View Post
    Well, I got the gauge stepper motors today. Has anyone changed these stepper motors out? The instructions say to turn the gauge needle until it breaks free from the shaft.. That's a scary thought. I fix stuff, I don't break em.
    Just search youTube. I have seen a bunch of videos of guys taking them off with forks

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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