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Thread: 1990 1500

  1. #21

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    hey so the springs looked good no damage and they felt a stiff as the others I squirted some oil down the cylinder and still no compression, I took it to a shop today and they had a listen to it and think its the exhuast valve, but hey I was wondering would a 1998 vortech 350 fit into mine , will the tranny and tourge converter all bolt up?

  2. #22
    Sr. Apprentice Looey's Avatar
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    Unfortunately your tbi manifold won't bolt up to a vortec head. But! You can bolt the tbi on any sbc (gen 1, 305,327,350,400) as long as the cylinder heads aren't so old that they don't have the accessory bolt holes.

  3. #23

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    ok so I would just drop in the newer motor and bolt my TBI onto it? the engine is a 1998 350, so what about all the other sensors, will they still be in the same locations?

  4. #24

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    I'm not positive about the trans, hopefully someone else will know for sure. But it's very likely that everything will work ok if it's a standard 5.7 block, with vortec heads. As was stated your TBI manifold won't fit on a vortec long block, so make sure you get a TBI manifold with/for it if you want to reuse your current electronics. All sensors and such should bolt up ok.

    here's what you're looking for for a manifold (or something similar)
    http://www.jegs.com/i/GM%20Performan...0002/-1?CT=999
    1986 Chevy G20 Tow Rig - 5.7 TBI conversion
    1978 Mustang II King Cobra Road Racer - Holley 650, MSD 6AL, 5 speed, 10 point Roll Cage, 9" posi, fuel cell, custom interior.

  5. #25

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    Hey guys just giving you guys a folow up I ripped off the heads and it was a burnt valve on the #8 cylinder, so I got a valve job and checked the heads out and put them back on. Now when iam setting in my distributor do I set it to TDC so at 0 on the tab, and the rotor should be pointed at the number one spark pug? or is thi the wrong way?

  6. #26
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    That is correct, providing that #1 is on compression & not on exhaust. Look at the rockers & make sure that both the intake & exhaust valves are CLOSED on #1, when the mark on the balancer is at 0, otherwise your distributor will end up being 180 degrees off.

    Thanks for keeping us updated on this. It's always nice to hear how things are going.
    Also congrats on it being a burnt exhaust valve. That's a lot easier & cheaper than a cracked head or piston.
    Last edited by stephan; 01-14-2011 at 01:14 AM.
    1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
    350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
    L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
    Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
    Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
    3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
    No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol


  7. #27

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    Thanks, I was pretty happy when I took the head off and saw the valve, and the cylinder and piston where still good , Hey I was going to ask I had it at TDC on the compression stroke and I pulled off the cap, the rotor was pointing at the drivers side fire wall ,so in behined the # 7 cylinder, That got me confused is it possible for the bottom of the diss to miss the oil shaft or not really and what would cause this? I had the engine turning over and it just backfired fuel through the TBI

  8. #28
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    It's off then. If I remember right, the first time you used the pressure & spark plug hole & the starter method to find TDC... It should have either been pointing at #1 (or #6 if it was 180 degrees out.) Go back & turn the engine over by hand till both rockers, valves are closed on #1 & watch the line on the balancer come up to the 0 on the tab. (you can also pull the spark plug and feel for compression but don't use the starter. It will get it too far off & is a PITA.) Then pull your cap & pull the dist & realign it. You may have to realign the oil pump shaft so the slot in it aligns with the drive pin in the bottom of the distributor shaft so when you drop it back in it aligns & the dist will drop down all the way..
    You can also do it the cheaters way ha ha ha, When you get it to TDC on #1, & 0 degrees at the crank, pull the cap & see where the rotors pointing. Switch your number one plug wire to the cap where it's pointing & then switch all your other wires to the correct fireing order on the cap. The distributor rotor rotates clockwise (looking at it from the top) & the fireing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. I don't like to do them that way, but it's easier if you want to..

    Just in case you didn't know, the distributor drives the oil pump, so if the dist isn't seated all the way down on the manifold, the oil pump isn't being driven. It might be a good idea to check this based on what you said. I'm wondering if the oil pump shaft collar is broken & has allowed the intermediate shaft to slip Not an issue if you have oil pressure, just wondering cuz of the way you worded that last part.
    Last edited by stephan; 01-14-2011 at 03:27 AM.

  9. #29

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    I had oil pressure and I put a screw driver down the diss hole and turned the oil shaft I was just wondering if it was at all possible ( if nothing was broken ) that the diss shaft could miss the oil shaft, But yea thanks for the info I have a crate 355 in my 82 cutlass and thats how I set up the timing with that. I just wasnt sure if it was the same on a 90's 350 , I will go give it another shot in the morning and get back to ya, thanks again for all the help

  10. #30
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    You're welcome.......

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