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01-09-2011, 06:18 PM #1
How to Install CCM Leveling Kit???
Does anyone have any helpful information regarding the installation of a CCM Offroad leveling kit? I just received my kit in the mail and I figured that it would be a bit easier than the directions lead me to believe it actually will be. I know that there are quite a few members around here who have installed CCM kits on their own trucks and I figured it would be quite nice to get some help from you guys.
I suppose that I could always have one of the local truck shops install this kit for me but I would really rather do it myself so that I can gain some extra knowledge about the topic.
Any help/resources/hints/guides/or missed threads would be excellent! Thanks in advance.
01-10-2011, 05:25 PM #2
Ok, I realize that it's probably my general lack of knowledge for what each of these parts is (and where each is located) that is causing me a problem. So, I'm going to go ahead and post the directions that were included with the leveling kit in hopes that someone can help me make a bit of sense out of this. I also just may have to get out there, remove the wheels and tires, and see if I can't figure it out myself.
Anyway, here are the included directions (word for word)....
Assorted Metric Tools
1.) Raise vehicle and support frame with jack stands.
2.) Remove front wheels.
3.) Disconnect sway bar and move out of the way.
4.) Disconnect ABS line from front upper control arm and knuckle.
5.) Separate upper ball joing by removing the nut and striking the side of the knuckle with a large hammer (Don't strike the threads).
6.) Remove three upper strut nuts.
7.) Remove lower strut bolts.
8.) Remove strut from the vehicle.
9.) Install the CCM Offroad upper strut mount spacer on the strut, using new hardware that is supplied. Torque to 40 ft-lbs (Can only go one way).
10.) With a hacksaw or other cutting tool, cut the studs so they are flush with or just below the new upper mount.
11.) Place a floor jack under the lower control arm.
12.) Install the lower bolts and torque to 40 ft-lbs.
13.) With the floor jack raise the lower control arm so the new studs go through the factory holes and continue until the upper ball joint can be reattached.
14.) Torque upper mount nuts to 40 ft-lbs and the ball joint to 70 ft-lbs.
15.) Reattach ABS line to upper control arm. Reattach sway bar.
16.) Reinstall front wheels and set back on ground. (torque to factory specs)
17.) Have front end alignment checked.
18.) Re-torque all hardware after 500 miles.
---------- Post added at 05:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:22 PM ----------
So first off, I'm wondering if I need jack stands or if there is soemthing else that I can use (something that I may actually have around the house.
Second, I have no idea what it means to "torque" any of the abovementioned items that require "torquing". On this note, what do I use to measure the ft=lbs while adjusting the torque?
Finally, is step 10 (involving the hacksaw) really necessary?
01-10-2011, 06:23 PM #3
I cannot help fully on this buddy, but I will try to explain what I know. I had the local Chevy dealership install my level kit so that is why I can't help with install. With the torque you would need a torque wrench and they can be rented from like an Auto Zone for a few hours. They are kinda expensive to just go and buy one for the install of the kit. With the hacking of the studs; I dont believe the dealership hacked mine. The 3 studs on each strut stick out about 1/2 inch above the top of the new nut. I know this does not answer all your questions and might not answer any of them, but I tried....
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01-10-2011, 09:52 PM #4
That actually does help a fair amount. I'm certainly left with a better understanding than before. Thanks for chiming in, ajarman.
If anyone else has any input it would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to try and give it a look tomorrow if I can. We'll see if that helps me out any.
01-10-2011, 10:06 PM #5
I would highly recommend picking up a set of jack stands. That's the safest way to work on a truck, and much cheaper than a trip to the ER. X2 what ajarman said about the torque wrench. Check out silveradotrailblazer who has a lot of experience with lift/leveling kits.
01-11-2011, 12:26 AM #6
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Hey Vin I think the reason they tell you to cut the studs off flush or a little below, is because they will end up seating instead of the spacer seating. The top of your spacer is the mating surface so the studs have to be cut off so they don't interfere. If you take your spacer out with you & look at your struts & see how they're mounted you'll understand.
For the money you'll save by doing the install yourself, you could buy jackstands & still have money left over. They are the safest way to go. The hardest part of this job is breaking the ball joint stud loose & it isn't that difficult. You just have to whack it accurately a couple times & they should pop right off. I noticed that the instructions said to "remove the nut" as if they want you to take it completely off before you break the ball joint loose.. I always loosen them but leave them on there, then after I've broken the ball joint stud loose, I remove the nut. Leaving it on there helps keep everything in controll instead of having the control arm fly off the joint when it finally breaks loose. Just a safety thing.1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol
01-11-2011, 09:22 AM #7
Not trying to be rude, but based on your questions it doesn't sound like you have the mechanical ability to attempt this. I would either have a shop do it or maybe you have a friend who's a bit more mechanically inclined who can help. As I said, not trying to be rude but I'd hate to see you mess up your truck or worse yet hurt yourself.Adam
01-11-2011, 04:06 PM #8
Originally Posted by stephan
Thanks for the info, Stephan! That was actually very helpful. I think I'll certainly need to get some jack stands. I think they'll help out a lot in the future.
Other than that, I went out and took a look at my truck today and everything made a lot more sense. For the last few days I've just been staring at directions and a leveling kit while hanging out inside (out of the cold). This is all not too mention the fact that I've been a little too busy to go out and mess around with the truck. Anyway, things look a little easier than I was originally antisipating and I appreciate all of your help. I'll let you know how this continues to go.
01-11-2011, 06:12 PM #9
Make sure you get strong enough & tall enough jackstands. I ended up getting mine from Tractor Supply and they are 6 Ton and go as high as 26 inches. My old jackstands were 3 ton, but was not tall enough for the truck with the level kit and new tires. Just something to keep in mind.....
________2013 4C Rated__________
01-11-2011, 11:52 PM #10
Well in that case I admire your ambition! Can't help with the install since my truck has torsion bars, but I can tell you good luck and stay safe!Adam
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