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  1. #1

    Default Knock sensors...

    Check engine light came on this morning... took the truck to the High school auto shop and let them look at the codes while I worked on computers at the campus... anyway, I came back to find out that it was the knock sensors. They cleared the codes and told me to see if the CEL comes back on.

    Now.. I went ahead and priced out the parts.. kind of... I dont know if I have 2 wire sensors or 1 wire sensors... and the price difference.. WOW! The 1 wire sensor was like $55, the 2 wire sensor is like $10.

    Any ideas on which ones I have, or how to tell the difference (without taking everything apart)
    Matt
    Wichita Falls, TX
    2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 Classic LS 4x4, 4.8L
    Thrush Welded muffler, dual exhaust
    HELO MAXX6 18" Rims, Torza Tri Fold tonneau cover :glasses:

  2. #2
    Jr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Cochrane, AB
    Posts
    231

    Default

    Had this same code come up this past summer. Cleared the light, and 4 hours later it came on again. Then early the next morning it went out by itself. Chances are you can actually get away with just cleaning the sensors.

    Sorry I can't help you with which type you have. But if you know the location and are willing to take everything apart, I would suggest doing that and use a good sensor cleaner like MAF sensor cleaner or anything else by CRC to see if that solves your problem first. At the same time you will find out what type of sensor you have. I believe the easiest way to tell is at the connector end. If there are two pins that means 2 wire, 1 pin = 1 wire.
    SEAFOAM, I PUT THAT @#!$ IN EVERYTHING!



    2004 Silverado LS 5.3L Z71 Crew Cab
    260,000+ km

  3. #3

    Default

    I believe they are under the intake on my truck... the reason the mechanic told me I would have to purchase intake gaskets....

  4. #4

    Default

    try calling the parts department at the dealership, they should be able to tell you which one it is, probably based on vin.
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  5. #5

    Default

    i had this same problem on my '02. The CEL would come on for a few minutes then go off. Each time it came on it was for longer periods of time though. Granted it was about a month between each time. Now it just stays on. I don't really want to have to take the intake off and deal with that, so I just check the code about once a month to make sure no new codes have come up.
    2002 Chevy 1500 Ex-cab Z71: 5.3L, auto 4, shorties, hi-flow cats, true dual 2.5" straight pipes, AirAid intake, TBS, Platinum plugs, 8.5mm wires, programmer, 3in w/ 33s, also has the composite bed

    2010 GMC 1500 Crew Cab Z71 w/ All Terrain package: 5.3L, auto 6, 2" Zone leveling kit, AirAid Jr. Intake Kit

  6. #6
    Jr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Cochrane, AB
    Posts
    231

    Default

    I've heard that on occasion the cause of this can be knocking lifters. The problem is at startup, while the oil pump is building pressure and getting oil up to the top of the engine the lifters knock a bit and can be loud enough to cause the sensor to be tripped. The other possible cause is that ever familiar piston slap many GMs have during warm up. The best thing you can do to avoid this issue from startup is to let it idle for a few minutes (not just the 30 seconds it takes you to put your seat belt on and think about where you're going to go) before leaving your parking spot/driveway.

    This should only be an issue with an oil pump that might be losing it's prime causing the delay before the oil can get to the top of the engine.

  7. #7

    Default

    The light was off all afternoon yesterday, when I drove it around. This morning (when it was cold again) it came on about 20 minutes into my drive to work. I always start my truck 5 minutes or so before I leave the house when its cold.
    I am not going to worry about it a lot, maybe Uncle Sam will owe me some money and I can get it fixed...

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