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Thread: 1994 Chevy Z71 Rear End Dana 60
11-18-2011, 01:08 PM #11
- Join Date
- Nov 2011
I have a 1994 K1500, 350 TBI, 5 speed. I lifted it and put 33's on it, now it needs gears. What diffs do I have front and rear? How can I tell?
11-18-2011, 05:04 PM #12
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Kingston Springs Tennessee
Your vehicle VIN code contains your axle type and gear ratio information. Both front and rear ratios must match. Once you have a copy of the code there are VIN code readers on the internet to decipher the information. There should be a link here in older posts that might point you in the right direction for a vin code reader. If not try google.
11-19-2011, 01:27 AM #13
If you are just looking for a stronger rearend some 88-98 Z71 extended cab trucks with the heavy duty towing package came with a semi-floating 14 bolt rearend. This axle will be a direct bolt in on your truck. This 14 bolt axle will also have 3.73 gears so you will have to swap the fronts to match. The factory G80 locking diff is not the strongest. It requires one wheel to be spinning faster then the other then it kicks in often with a jolt. There are alot of small parts inside that can and often do break. I destroyed one last summer in my Suburban pulling a trailer with two jet skis up a slippery boatramp.
97 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L
78 GMC High Sierra K1500
Fat, drunk, and stupid is no way to go thru life.
12-01-2011, 09:28 PM #14
if you want to up grade to a beefier rear end you need to find a 14 bolt full floater, it will bolt right up and if your willing to spend a little you can get a newer unit with disc brakes. BUT it will change your rear lug nut pattern to an 8 lug, not sure what you have now. It is possible to to find a later model semi floater and then you can retain your current 6 lug pattern if that is what you all ready have. Parts are easy to find both and upgrades are rampant for both the FF and SF 14 bolts. Its also stronger than the Dana 60 in every way.
As far as the SAS, listen to Daredevil. If you are planning on hardcore off-roading than yes do it but if you just want a mall crawler than its not worth the time or money for you. Plus its not something you just bolt up, grinding the IFS off and welding up spring perches is not for the light at heart. Dont mean to offend but you will need some mechanical skills to DIY a job like that and a good shop will mortage your house to perform for you.
But hey if you do the SAS there is a wealth of people willing to help on this forum, that know what and how to do it.
D44/14BFF w/Disc conv - Yukon 4:88's - Yukon Grizzly Lockers F/R -13" lift - DIY4x Shackle Flip - 37 ATZ on 18 MT Classics - Doug Thorley headers - Magnaflow - Holley Pro Jection Intake - Ultimate TBI mods - Hydroboost Brake Conversion - Hysteer-X Over Conversion.
(Coming up - Fuel Injected 383 Stroker - Divorced NP205 - D60 - 40" tires)
12-04-2011, 03:50 PM #15
I'd just drop in a real Dana 60 rear axle differential and be done with it, the stock ones are kinda wimpy.1994 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext Cab 350 cuin TBI in dark Chevy blue
Original engine and tranny
wrecked twice stolen once
Diamond Plate bed rails
Original Alloy wheels
Original fancy smancy cup holder
Original plastic bed liner
K&N Cone Air Intake
Dual MagnaFlow exhaust(not true dual) with chrome tips
MSD Street Fire Performance Ignition coil
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