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Thread: Torsion keys

  1. #1

    Default Torsion keys

    I am looking to throw some lift blocks in my 99 4wd silverado and some torsion keys up front. The blocks i have no problem replacing, its the torsion keys i have never done before. Some people say i need a tool to remove them which i called autozone and a few mechanics and they had no idea what i was talking about. i am just looking for some help on removing the keys. Can i do it with a regular breaker bar and socket? or is there actually a tool to remove them? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys!

  2. #2
    Sr. Engineer IPFK83's Avatar
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    The torsion keys are not hard to replace but they can be very dangerous to remove if you don't know what your doing a couple things you need to do index the torsion bar in the lower a-arm and on the key side so when pull the old one make sure the new one goes in the same way also you need to measure theadjustment bolt to make sure you don't over tighten the bolt when reinstalling. To remove the torsion bars you need to pull the adjustment bolt all the way out. Then you need the removal tool to compress the the torsion bar and remove the key block. Here is a link to the removal tool you need http://store.newlevelmotorsports.com/gmtobarunto.html

    Last edited by IPFK83; 02-03-2011 at 06:31 PM.

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  3. #3

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    looks just like a c-clamp

  4. #4
    Sr. Engineer IPFK83's Avatar
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    Yeah but these are much beefier than a c-clamp

  5. #5

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    anything i can use in place of the removal tool?

  6. #6
    Jr. Apprentice Busted Knuckles's Avatar
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    I rebuilt my entire front end on my 96' last fall , (total bitch of a job,189k. and salted roads, never owned an IFS Rig) . I'll be damned if I spend the money to use it one or two times . I did my torsion bars like IPFK83 said as far as indexing the bars (mark both ends at the lower control arm/and back at the key (marking with model paint and a small paint brush (ie:for painting models), that's where it ends . Since I was doing the ball joints/bushings I "popped" the lower Ball Joint (leave the nut on !!!!!) I had my Tahoe jacked up as high as possible ( I used some 4"x4" blocks on the jack pad for more lift) and put the jack stands on the frame . After breaking the lower ball joints loose I put the jack under the lower control arm and put light tension on the control arm then removed the nut on the b/j and lowered the control arm very slow until the torsion bar and control arm was hanging free .
    I pulled the adjuster/tension bolt out with my impact gun then removed the block . (after marking the threads of the bolt for referance) . The fun comes when trying to get the torsion bar out of the key. You gotta soak the bar ends with a good penetrating oil (I use "P'Blaster") then beat the bars out of the key , you may have to drop the lower control arm (the bars rust in their holes friggin tight). Make sure you clean the torsion bars with coarse sand paper or a 4" right angle grinder with a wire cup and clean the holes with a tooth brush sized wire brush and use anti-seize when you put them back together .
    Hope this helps .
    Peoples Suspicions are only aroused by our actions !

  7. #7

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    i bought the truck with a 3 inch body lift on it and when i replace the keys and install blocks will i have to buy new (longer) brake lines and bigger shocks and control arms and all that jazz?

  8. #8
    Jr. Engineer jwco5.3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fala21 View Post
    i bought the truck with a 3 inch body lift on it and when i replace the keys and install blocks will i have to buy new (longer) brake lines and bigger shocks and control arms and all that jazz?
    I would say no. with Torsion keys all you do is raise the stock suspension. On the above post and the torsion bars being stuck in the torsion keys, mine were to. If you use a Air Hammer/chisle (whatever its called) they will come out easily. Good luck and keep us posted.

  9. #9
    Jr. Apprentice Busted Knuckles's Avatar
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    fala21 ,
    A couple things , you may want to go to a Hardware Store and buy one of the Angle/Pitch Tools . They are about 4" -4" they may make a magnetic one, IDK . Check your drive shaft angle by the rear yoke,Ideal is 2* More than that and you will eat up U-Joints , Loose H.P and mileage . You can buy shims for the rear axle tube from Summit/Jegs etc.
    Also , something that I haven't seen so far is lifting our trucks throws the alignment right out the window . Lifting affects Toe/Camber and Caster .
    Stay Safe ..
    Steve

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