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Thread: Rear main seal

  1. #1

    Default Rear main seal

    Okay, here pretty soon, I have to change the rear main on my Dad's '95 K2500 big block Sub.

    I am definitely not looking forward to it. Sadly I don't have a lift, so I will have to do it all on my back.

    I know what this job entails, but would appreciate your input as to what may make this job a little bit easier.

    1991 Suburban

  2. #2
    stephan's Avatar
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    Sep 2010
    Far West, Oregon USA,
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    A nice smooth concrete floor & a creeper, will go a long ways towards comfort, & a good floor jack & good jackstands. If it's an automatic tranny & you don't have a trans jack, take the plate off your floor jack & bolt about a 1 1/2 to 2' foot square piece of 3/4" plywood to it & it will make a good substitute for a trans jack. (use a tapered head bolt or use a stove bolt & counter sink the head)
    1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
    350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
    L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
    Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
    Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
    3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
    No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol

  3. #3


    No concrete pad. Just the dirt driveway. I am going to have to lay down a couple of sheets of plywood so that I can at least use a tranny jack. Yeah, it's the 4L80E. Gonna be a good time...

    I am also hoping that I will be able to manipulate the tranny out past the stock exhaust. It's tight on the bottom, but considering I have to take the dust shield off anyways, I may be able to get it out. I hate messing with the exhaust. It ALWAYS ends up leaking.

    Thanks for the input Stephan

  4. #4


    It's going to be a severe pain to pull the transmission with the engine still in the truck. I helped my uncle remove and install his 4L80E out of his 99 big block. You will need someone with VERY small hands to get to the top bellhousing bolts and even more to get the cooler lines pulled. You would actually have an easier time pulling the whole motor and transmission as an assembly, doing your work outside the truck, and then putting them back in. We pulled just the transmission the first time, the second, we pulled the engine and tranmission still bolted together. Seriously, I'm not exaggerating. That engine/transmission combo was definitely designed outside the vehicle, then crammed in.

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half

    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

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  5. #5


    I have pulled my share of transmissions. Worked in a transmission shop for a few years. Yeah, I know what you mean about small hands, but I have no problem dropping the back of the engine a couple of inches. Most people don't like to do that, but flexibility is what rubber motor mounts were made for.

    I agree that pulling the engine would be a benefit (degreasing and painting), but I am in a dirt driveway. I have done a few engine swaps in the dirt, and it SUCKS! Can't move the cherry picker more than a few inches.

    Besides, I have to do my best to get this all completed in a day. Dad isn't much help when it comes to stuff like this. He is a 63 year old disabled Vietnam Vet. He is not a picture of health. Hell, he tripped the other day, and ended up separating a rib! Now, don't think I am talking down on my Dad. I love him to death, but this is just something he can't do anymore. So, unless I can talk one of my cousins into helping, I am solo on this one...

    Thanks for the tip, though.

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