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Thread: JaxTahoe04's thread
03-01-2011, 11:10 AM #1
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
Rather than posting a new thread any time I change something on my 04 Tahoe, I thought it would be better to start an ongoing thread with ANYTHING I do to the truck. I'm not an avid wheeler/mudder, hunter, etc and I don't plan on really doing a whole lot of mods to the truck. My previous car was a completely built VW Jetta GLI with a full big turbo set-up, full suspension, big brakes, computer (windows XP), laser jammer, THE WORKS! It was pushing 340WHP and was super quick for a FWD 4 banger. I'm over it! A little sad but ready to move on. I'm an auto enthusiast through and through and I appreciate and respect vehicles of all sorts. American, German, Japanese, Korean (wow, they're really coming around).
Anyways, my ongoing thread will cover any cosmectic and/or performance updates, DIY's detailing how-to, random photos etc...It might not interest everyone but hey, it's only a click to go back looking at something of more interest.
Being an avid detailer, when I purchased the Tahoe a few weeks ago, I told the dealer to NOT even wash it, no tire slime and no greasy dash stuff. I do this mainly with new cars because the detailers at the dealer often put swirl marks etc in the paint and treat it like it's a normal part of washing a car. IT'S NOT! Anyway, that's my rant. I gave the tahoe a decent wash inside and out the following weekend. Of course, the pollen arrived here in Florida.
So my first real notable update is the debadging of the rear liftgate. Debadging is a common cosmetic mod and one that I usually do. I'll debadge the C pillars next. No need to have an old LT badge on each side of the truck. For the tahoe I used a plastic puddy knife, a stiff guitar pick and some goo gone. Dental floss works well too but all I have are those newer slingshot looking floss tools. Once I got the badges and most of the two sided tape off, I hit it with some goo-gone. Next I used a clay bar and some clay lube spray. This works well at really getting the residue off. It's been there for 7 years! Next day, I did a quick clean of the entire hatch area and polished the painted area with Meguiar's finishing polish (M205). I used a porter cable DA polisher (PC7424) and a foam polishing pad. I polished the entire hatch and this removed the swirls and cleaned the paint. I followed this with a wipedown using 93% Isapropyl alcohol and a plush microfiber towel. The IPA wipedown gets rid of any residue, oils etc from the polish and makes the paint surface squeaky clean. Sealants and waxes tend to bond better to clean paint making it more durable. After this IPA wipedown, I used a wipe-on sealant called Optimum opti-seal. I let this 'cure' for about 2 hours. Most modern sealants use advanced polymers which actually crosslink with each other during the curing process. I then topped this with a popular liquid wax called Pinnacle liquid souveran. This is a great liquid wax and I like the look of it on lighter metallic paints. The debadging took close to an hour. The polishing, wax process I did later also took about an hour (not counting the 2 hours waiting for the sealant to cure.
I wish I would have taken more before after pics but all I have at the moement is this crappy cell pic. I have some shots on my DSLR but having some PC issues.
Here is the debadged shot of the rear!
Thanks for reading my boring story!
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