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  1. #1

    Default Approaching 200k need some advice!

    Hey whats up guys,

    I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.8l V8 that I use as my quad/dirtbike/bbq hauler and I absolutely love it. It's my first truck (I'm a bmw guy) but have owned a couple of Jeeps as well. I am wondering if there is anything I should look at replacing soon as the truck has over 195K miles on it now and I'd like to drive to from CA to TX soon. My friend and previous owner drove it from Maine to CA 5-6x and it's always been ok. The truck admittedly has a lot of rust from being in Maine for so long. I recently replaced the brake rotors, pads and calipers due to rust and I also had to replace the fuel pump about 3 months ago.

    Right now when I turn the AC on it makes a really bad squealing/screeching noise which needs to get fixed but I'm wondering about the cooling system or anything else that may need attention with this kind of mileage? Any other advice you guys have is greatly appreciated. I'm new to the truck world so parts/mods/etc I need some advice on.

  2. #2

    Default

    You've got a bad tensioner on your A/C belt. It's not that hard to replace.
    As for the rest, check out your ball joints, tie rods, bushings, etc.
    Otherwise, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :D
    ...
    ....

  3. #3

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    Is there a DIY or anything on how to do the belt tensioner? I prefer to work on my own cars and haven't gotten a guide for this yet.

  4. #4
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    The tensioner is pretty straight foreward. Just repl the new one exactly like you took the old one off.
    Before your trip I would flush the cooling system if it hasn't been done in the last 30K, & do a compression check on your engine so you can find out if it's sound so it doesn't leave you stranded out in the desert. If you haven't been following your fluid service replacements (, eng oil, trans fluid/filter, rear gear oil) I would do those before you leave & ask your mechanic to carefully inspect the old fluids for signs of wear, debris, ect that could fortell of any immediate failures headed your way. If you have greasable U-joints give them a shot too. The 195K isn't a big issue, as many members here have gotten 250K-350K with nothing other than normal maintanance services & minor repairs.
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by stephan View Post
    The tensioner is pretty straight foreward. Just repl the new one exactly like you took the old one off.
    Before your trip I would flush the cooling system if it hasn't been done in the last 30K, & do a compression check on your engine so you can find out if it's sound so it doesn't leave you stranded out in the desert. If you haven't been following your fluid service replacements (, eng oil, trans fluid/filter, rear gear oil) I would do those before you leave & ask your mechanic to carefully inspect the old fluids for signs of wear, debris, ect that could fortell of any immediate failures headed your way. If you have greasable U-joints give them a shot too. The 195K isn't a big issue, as many members here have gotten 250K-350K with nothing other than normal maintanance services & minor repairs.
    Ok I was wondering cause I wanted to know what parts I need to order. I am doing an oil change this weekend, O'Reily had a special for oil and filter this week so I got 5 quarts of castrol and a fram filter for $17 but I am gonna go get an AC Delco filter instead.

  6. #6

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    I was also wondering what the best way to check tie rods/ball joints is? I know how to on my BMW but am not sure if it's the same for a truck?

  7. #7
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    jack by the control arms untill the wheel is off the ground, make sure its stable, push in and out on the top of the tire, if theres play then the upper ball joint has play, use a pry bar undeer the tire and lift up and down, if theres play your lower probably has play, (if unsure have a friend pry on tire and look under vehicle, you should be able to see play between the control arm and steering knuckle, you can also look at the upper from this point too. while you have the wheel off the ground check the wheel beings too. grab the tire at 12oclock and 6 and go in and out with it. to check yoru tie rods, grab the tire at 9 and 3, go in and out just a little bit, if theres play then you have something loose, also you can do whats called the dry park method, with the vehilce on the ground have a friend go left and right with the wheel (back and forth, NOT lock to lock), grab each steering component and and see/feel for play.
    "i dont think you got the picture. i got a beautiful picture. this baby happens to have an extra turn of speed, which is the only thing i care about. you dont understnad what happens do you? they make cars. they make 'em exactly the same way. one or two of 'em turn out to be something special. nobody knows why. i know why. i may be kiddin' myself, but i think i can make somethin' out of that sad little bucket of bolts." ~ Tennessee Steinmetz

  8. #8

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    To be honest I think my balljoints and tie rods are bad, the truck has super bad bump steer and just kind of steers funny in general cause everything seems kinda loose haha.

  9. #9
    Sr. Mechanic LSU truckman's Avatar
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    Sounds like you found some "loose ends" that need tying up before hitting the road. On my 2000 Silverado, I had to change my wheel bearings at about 110,000 miles but I had wider aftermarket rims and tires on it for a long time and this contributed I'm sure.
    Ball joints and tie rod ends aren't that big a deal to DIY if you have have basic mechanical skills. Make sure you head straight to an alignment shop when your are done and let them know what you did. If they are worth anything, they will go over your handy work to insure its ok.

    Also, the AC belt made need to be changed if it has not been. Mine broke at 112,000 miles. Wouldn't hurt to change the serpitine main belt too. (two separate belts, the AC is kinda hidden down on the lower pass. side of your engine)
    Last edited by LSU truckman; 03-04-2011 at 11:17 AM. Reason: Adding
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