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  1. #21
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    murdog94's Avatar
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    Default

    Yep............... hence why it is in the general tech section.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  2. #22

    Default

    I like the disclaimer in your sig :P
    1986 Chevy G20 Tow Rig - 5.7 TBI conversion
    1978 Mustang II King Cobra Road Racer - Holley 650, MSD 6AL, 5 speed, 10 point Roll Cage, 9" posi, fuel cell, custom interior.

  3. #23
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    murdog94's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks. I actually have never been shy that i like ford and chevy the same. so to me it is just fine. I still support a chevy site, and am happy to be here and own both brands. one you will NEVER EVER EVER sell me is a dodge! cant stand them.
    Mike

    Currently

    1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with 330K miles and counting (Hunting rig).

    2009 Saturn Aura XE (wifes car)

    2011 F-150 Crew 4X4

    "Hold it to the floor till you see God.... Then Brake!!!!"

  4. #24

    Default

    I've owned all 3 lol. Drove a caravan for a long time, love em. my hot rod is a mustang, my DD is a cavalier, and towing is the g20. Ford trucks are good, i just don't like the body on em. But they make good engines, and have a great tuner community (if you ever want to tune that beast up)
    1986 Chevy G20 Tow Rig - 5.7 TBI conversion
    1978 Mustang II King Cobra Road Racer - Holley 650, MSD 6AL, 5 speed, 10 point Roll Cage, 9" posi, fuel cell, custom interior.

  5. #25

    Default

    We're getting a little off-topic, but I'm also both a Chevy and a Ford man, so long as it's a truck. I have the Suburban and 2 Broncos in the fleet myself.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

    Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage

  6. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by murdog94 View Post
    Yep............... hence why it is in the general tech section.
    Nice, you sucker......LMAO !!!!!

    1996 Suburban K3500 SLT DUALLY
    1988 Camaro RS 383 stroker LT1
    1992 32' Aero-tek Race Boat, 600 CI BBC
    WE CAN STICK A DIESEL IN ANYTHING
    SPECIALIZED IN CUSTOM CONVERSIONS OF ANY KIND
    Scott:glasses:

  7. #27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
    We're getting a little off-topic, but I'm also both a Chevy and a Ford man, so long as it's a truck. I have the Suburban and 2 Broncos in the fleet myself.

    Since OP was moving off topic as well, it's acceptable
    1986 Chevy G20 Tow Rig - 5.7 TBI conversion
    1978 Mustang II King Cobra Road Racer - Holley 650, MSD 6AL, 5 speed, 10 point Roll Cage, 9" posi, fuel cell, custom interior.

  8. #28

    Default www.studpuller.com

    There are many stud removal tools on the market. Some are made cheap for one time consumer use and only one is made to stand up to the extremes of industrial use. The problem with frozen studs is the mechanical binding of the threads against each other. When we put extreme torque on the bolt or stud, it creates side-loading, which in turn creates friction and heat.
    The only way to solve this problem is to get the stud removal tool to become one with the stud so that when it rotates, the energy is transferred to the entire stud down through the housing. Any tool that attemts to pull sideways against the stud will create side-loading and depending upon how tight the mechanical bind, will not work.
    Double-nutting works on occassion but only uses a very small part of the stud for leverage. It is the cheap way to remove studs and probably the best if you only have one stud to remove.
    But if frozen studs are a common problem that you deal with frequently, there's no replacement for the StudPuller located at www.studpuller.com. Go see the demo at the website and see the physics behind the tool. Compare it to any tool on the market and you'll see the superior engineering behind the tool. See the pic below that is the secret behind the Stud puller.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Studpuller cam.jpg 
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    It's the internal cam that allow the jaws to cinch down on the stud and transfer the rotating energy through the stud to the housing releasing the mechanical bind. See if any other tool can match it.

  9. #29

    Default

    Good info SRT! Thanks.

  10. #30

    Default

    You could always just clean the stud up down to bare metal, and then JB weld the crap out of a nut on it.
    www.youtube.com/ippielb
    2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 z71 1985 Chevrolet Silverado k10 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd 6.6l LLY Duramax
    6.5" BDS Suspension Lift Edelbrock Carb & Polished Intake Manifold & Valve Covers NAPC Race Transmission & NAPC Built Transfer Case
    EFI Live Comp Cam and Valvetrain Snow Performance Methanol Injection
    35" Toyo Open Country Mud Terrain on 18" Ion Alloy 179's Headman Long Tube Headers and True Dual Exhaust FASS 150gph Titanium Series Pump
    AirAid Cold Air Intake with K&N Dry Filter & AirAid PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer 2" Suspension Lift 33x12.50r15 Tires EFI Live & AFE Stage 2 Intake
    Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with Cats Gone True Dual Exhaust FlowPro 3.73 Gears Yukon Grizzly Locker with Mag-Hytec Cover & Traction Bars
    NGK Iridium Tips & MSD Ignition Plug Wires Baja Spare Tire Holder 33x13.5 Hankook rt03 18" XD Rims
    Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2 Sensor x2 HID's all around LED taillights and 3rd brake light
    BDS Dual Steering Stabilizers Pioneer Double-DIN Touchscreen Navigation with Two 10" Subs under rear seat
    Electric Fan Autometer Pressure, Boost, and Pyro Gauges
    4.56 Gears Airlift Air Bag Suspension

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